where abous are you tony?
Existing problems observed with car:
Latest Major problem:
- idle revving between 700-1000rpm
- when driving cold, engine light comes on - i turn it off, turn it back on and it's ok after that
- when cold, there'll be a whistling noise at the same rate as i step on the accelerator (only for first 2 - 5 mins)
- sometimes takes a while to start car as (chugs into life)
What mechanics say:
- Last Friday, took about 5 seconds to start car from key-turn
- drove 2 mins and engine cut out
- wouldn't start for next 10 mins
- managed to drive it around to the mechanics
Has anyone experienced similar problems?
- Sent CPU away for error code reading and CPU testing
- Faulty CPU - heats up and shuts off fuel to engine. when cold, will start again.
- At the moment, trying to fix that particular part of the CPU
- However, a new CPU will cost me $1350 from Holden
Is there a cheaper alternative to a new CPU from Holden?
Is this mechanic shtting me?!
Can anyone offer any other solutions?
Cheers,
Tony
Warning: This is an Old Thread
This discussion is older than 120 days. information contained in it may no longer be current . Please think of the children before resurrecting this ancient thread!
where abous are you tony?
Make me a sandwich.
I had similar problems with my old G.... had to change the ecu.. lucky is was still under warranty
I'm in / around south east melbourne
Sounds a bit extreme to suspect the ecu straight up.
If fuel is in fact shutting off, more likely to be an intermittent fuel pump relay (enclosed @ rear right hand side engine bay) If the relay is hot it's probably bad.. I had the same thing happen when the car was almost new. $10 for a new relay and all was sweet again.
Should have put a mark on your relay to see if they are trying to make some easy money
if it's the ecu... get a second hand unit from a wrecker.. the only downside is that it will probably have to be reflashed with a tech2 by a dealership.
Get a realtime diagnostic & code check before replacing anything expensive though.
Last edited by Keep'emRunning; 5th March 2008 at 02:24 PM.
nar he originally suspected the crank sensor or cambelt-something-or-other.
he did test the fuel pump independantly and the ecu as well, and the ecu came up as faulty.
so now i can either get a new one or second hand. i chose 2nd hand and they're getting it recoded at a dealership.
so that might cost me around 800-900...
for a 2nd hand one, including reflash.. for $900 you are getting ripped bigtime
It's the ECU - we had to do ours about 4 years ago - something to do with their design and where they are located in the car that causes some to fail prematurely. Our problem was that it would go into limp home mode, it would be reflashed, and become corrupt again from 5 minutes to 2 days after getting reflashed. At the same time, it would through up a bunch of random fault codes of problems that didn't exist.
$1350 sounds about right as a new ECU from holden was about 900 (in 2004) and it takes about 3 hours to change it as they have to rip a whole lot of stuff out to replace it. (at $90-100/hr labour)
[/SIZE]Current: , 2012 Volvo XC90 3.2
Ex's: MY13 Skoda Octavia vRS TDI, 2008 Honda CR-V Luxury, MY06 Volvo S40 T5 AWD, MY09 VW Passat R36 Family Truckster MY05 Subaru *sneeze* WRX , JSII Vectra CD 2.2, TS Astra CD "Olympic Edition"
right...so can anyone recommend a decent place in south-east melbourne to get a second hand one done?
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)