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  1. #11
    OpelAus King Dingaling dutchy's Avatar
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    Guess that prevent the valve to open and let off boost. That clamp can be rotated though, standard it's never in that position. Tighten up the actuator, if I remember well, is between, bottom nut, 4 to 6 complete turns up as standard setting when the valve is held closed by hand.
    2013 Astra sport 1.6T, asteroid grey, AFL+ adaptive bi-xenon headlights, FlexRide adaptive chassis control, 19" wheels, group buy door sill plates, carbon tint, de-lettered, smoked side indicators, Mtech short shifter, GM pedal covers, EDS Motorsport ipf stage 1
    http://www.opelaus.com/forums/showth...554#post821554

  2. #12
    I'm new here, please be nice
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dutchy Click here to enlarge
    Guess that prevent the valve to open and let off boost. That clamp can be rotated though, standard it's never in that position. Tighten up the actuator, if I remember well, is between, bottom nut, 4 to 6 complete turns up as standard setting when the valve is held closed by hand.
    You could be a genius Dutchy! I couldn't budge the clamp easily, however in my effort I managed to bend the screw shaft a little, not ideal but it worked. A bit of tape on the thread confirms its not impacting the actuator. It now feels a bit more controlled in the boost...its seems that the max boost is a lot more limited (ie its staying at max less often)...there is less traction loss on the same crap tyres in 2nd, with no loss in 3rd so its definitely had an effect - which I'm pleased at.

    I'm getting the Potenzas on tomorrow, I expect that to make a further transformation in the grip.
    Ash
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2003 TS Turbo in Arden Blue
    The others '18 Tiguan 132 and '17 Escape Diesel

  3. #13
    OpelAus Forum Addict chris_r's Avatar
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    Just a note, on the Z20LET engines, Torque doesn't read boost correctly. Somehow, my Corsa/Barina allegedly pushes 83psi when trying to read it through the app, when the gauge on my dash says it peaks at 28psi (Yes, not good for internally stock Z20LET, I know).
    2001 Opel Corsa C SRi: Z20LET EDS stage 3.5 173.9kW @ the wheels Build thread and here on FB: http://www.facebook.com/corsasriz20let
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  4. #14
    I'm new here, please be nice
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by chris_r Click here to enlarge
    Just a note, on the Z20LET engines, Torque doesn't read boost correctly. Somehow, my Corsa/Barina allegedly pushes 83psi when trying to read it through the app, when the gauge on my dash says it peaks at 28psi (Yes, not good for internally stock Z20LET, I know).
    That would explain that part then. It seems to overboost a little to 18psi on full throttle then return to around 15 consistently (reading from the boost gauge). I've checked the install of the gauge and it seems all in good order, so I'm trusting that rather than Torque. The Potenzas have helped grip significantly, but full throttle in first is heaps of wheel spin and 2nd is better but still loses grip.


    I've got some stuff on order from Courtenay's in the UK - just the crankcase oil breather hose (mine has a small hole in it), and replacement turbo to inter-cooler and inter-cooler to plenum hose - both of mine (especially the turbo to inter-cooler) are intact but not in good enough condition. I was thinking of importing a diesel air box to delete the over engine intake arrangement, but that'll have to wait - its all so expensive from the UK!


    I've replaced the front sway bar pins, they were knocking, thats fixed that but now I can hear some smaller knocking - maybe the sway bar bushes, or possibly even the exhaust is having a bang on something. Oil / filter change is done, I put in some treatment to try help keep the valve guides going a bit longer - a mate said it puffed a little blue smoke on startup (although I haven't seen it)


    I've replaced the headlights, and fitted LED globes with good results (although the aim is a little dodgy - I am sure its not blinding other drivers in normal conditions thought), and fitted LED interior illumination - heap more light and hopefully less current draw. But fitting the interior interior passenger light was a saga! I didn't know how to get the rear passenger globe out, so I removed the whole fitting. The handle/light fitting has a pain in the butt way of mounting to the car, and one of the mounts fell into the car between the inner shell and outer shell. I damn near disassembled the all rear passenger and boot trim just to find the little Fn thing - took me hours but I got it. Now I know how to replace the globes without pulling the car apart! Click here to enlarge


    With determination you can remove the rear door card without removing the rear seats (hahaha), though I wouldn't recommend it - bends too much (they are too fragile at their age). At least I know how to replace the rear speakers (Ive already replaced the front with new Pioneer splits - it has improved the sound quality). And because I removed even the tailgate trim I also figured out the rear demister is definitely OK ( I thought it wasn't working after the tint was replaced, it just works slower than modern cars hahaha), and I suspect the rear wiper (which isn't working) is OK....it looks like the stalk is faulty as it wont push forward to activate the rear wiper. Ill just get one off Ebay.


    I pulled apart the front dash center console as the LCD display was faulty - I got one from a wrecker. But of course that didn't work! I pulled mine apart, to find the very common fault of the LCD ribbon cable separation to be the reason. I just had to take apart the replacement, and really that one kindof fell apart in my hands with basically the same fault. Its going to annoy me not working so I've paid a huge sum of $200 for a newly made replacement from a Czech guy, but there is also a different replacement / repair service (unfortunately in Hungary - http://www.pixelfix.net/eng/index.html) or they just sell the ribbon cables. So I'm thinking of getting both repaired and selling them - wont be cheap - but they are just too hard to get working to let it go un-repaired. I'm waiting on a new stereo with a 4inch LCD (cheap Chinese thing, but Might be OK). I replaced the faulty cigarette socket with a dual USB/voltmeter - pleased with the result. I'm thinking of painting the centre console with a similar blue to Arden, maybe with some flecks in it


    I've got an Opel logo for the steering wheel, so Ill have to pull the airbag out at some stage to fit that. If the previous owner hadn't changed the centre wheel caps for Opel ones, I wouldn't have bothered, but now Ill have to source a rear Opel badge for the tailgate and an Opel front grille as well! I could get a blank front grille....but I like the flash logo of Opel. I had Vauxhall badges on my original new TS Turbo - they were cool too, much better than the Holden Lion on a Euro car.


    I've had the front bar repainted, and the drivers mirror - so much happier. Next I've got to fix the roof. I was thinking wrapping it, but in 2 minds about getting it properly painted, maybe in a dusty black


    I know I'm spending waaaay to much money, and effort, on this car. but I'm loving it!


    Sorry for the long post....just sharing, and never know if someone in the future will stumble across this info and find it useful
    Ash
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2003 TS Turbo in Arden Blue
    The others '18 Tiguan 132 and '17 Escape Diesel

  5. #15
    OpelAus King Dingaling dutchy's Avatar
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    Click here to enlarge thanks for the update mate.
    2013 Astra sport 1.6T, asteroid grey, AFL+ adaptive bi-xenon headlights, FlexRide adaptive chassis control, 19" wheels, group buy door sill plates, carbon tint, de-lettered, smoked side indicators, Mtech short shifter, GM pedal covers, EDS Motorsport ipf stage 1
    http://www.opelaus.com/forums/showth...554#post821554

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