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  1. #11
    OpelAus Enthusiast DWS 92's Avatar
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ausratty Click here to enlarge
    Hey comp test was around 160 psi on each cylinder which i think spec is 180 ? which i spoke to a mach about and he said it should be still ok.
    Bores still had nice hone marks in them no lips at all. Barely and carbon on the pistons . Definitely not glazed
    Yeah 160 is a bit low but that shouldn't be the problem. Is there noticeable vacuum when you pull the dipstick out or remove the oil cap with the engine running?

    2001 Opel Vectra B - Pioneer 12' sub, Head unit and Amplifier, 2.25 inch Cat-back system, hurricane extractors, Ram-air CAI, XHP JET Chrome 17" Wheels, Opelised, Front lip spoiler, Halo Projectors, KYB Shocks, King Springs

  2. #12
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    found the culprit ! After running it and making it blow plenty of smoke i took the exhaust manifold off. It appears cyl 2 has a cracked ring or similar. Looks like the 1.8 will be going in this weekend. Hope it goes fairly smoothly. Pain in the ass considering i thought it was valve stems and spent half the week (after work) redoing the head etc. Anyways no point whining ! Click here to enlarge will just get to throw the 1.8 in a bit sooner then i thought.

  3. #13
    OpelAus Forum Addict chris_r's Avatar
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    Shouldn't be too big a job really. Main things to remember are to swap the engine bay loom (the loom from the BCM to the fusebox, to the rest of the engine bay) and the ECU set (ECU, transponder ring around the ignition barrel and the transponder chips in the heads of the keys).

    Whilst both gearboxes are interchangeable, I'd keep the F17CR box from the SRi attached to the Z18, the Z16SE will have a F13 box attached. The F17CR is the stronger of these two.
    2001 Opel Corsa C SRi: Z20LET EDS stage 3.5 173.9kW @ the wheels Build thread and here on FB: http://www.facebook.com/corsasriz20let
    2018 Ford Transit 290S: Transit #2, in that order and it's also a POS
    1998 Opel Combo B: It has begun, and it's stalled - Build thread and FB page
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  4. #14
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    Hey Chris, Just wondering where do you actually pull the looms from ? Can i swap fuse boxes and everything. About to tackle it after lunch time.

  5. #15
    OpelAus Forum Addict chris_r's Avatar
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ausratty Click here to enlarge
    Hey Chris, Just wondering where do you actually pull the looms from ? Can i swap fuse boxes and everything. About to tackle it after lunch time.
    One loom comes out with the engine itself, this is the injection loom (ie connected to the injectors, cam and crank sensors, etc). The engine bay loom is the one that goes from the BCM down to the fusebox and then all throughout the engine bay. The BCM is located just north of the fusebox and is the black box looking thing heading into the cabin, underneath the cowling. Take the 6 or 7 T-20 Torx screws out of the BCM cover, remove the BCM (black rectangular box) by lifting the lever on the side of it. Then disconnect all the plugs in the BCM housing and there's one little clip on the BCM module socket itself that will separate the two halves of the connector. Took me a little bit to work out, but it's not too hard to do.
    2001 Opel Corsa C SRi: Z20LET EDS stage 3.5 173.9kW @ the wheels Build thread and here on FB: http://www.facebook.com/corsasriz20let
    2018 Ford Transit 290S: Transit #2, in that order and it's also a POS
    1998 Opel Combo B: It has begun, and it's stalled - Build thread and FB page
    2009 Holden Commodore VE SS: Gen IV LS power for the inner bogan

  6. #16
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    Hi Chris im hoping you can help me out. You say to swap the engine loom over however the looms coming from the bcm (ive split it in half) however going back to the fuse box theres another loom that comes from the fusebox then wraps around under the wipers and into the firewall (i assume to the dash) so do we cut this loom i think 15 wires including a heavy positive wire. And swap them over ? we pulled the fuesbox appart however the only component you can seperate is the very front loom for the thermos and aircon. I hope this makes sense.
    Thanks mate

  7. #17
    OpelAus Forum Addict chris_r's Avatar
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    You should be able to remove all that part of the loom too. Disconnect it from the wipers, the engine start/charge plug if you haven't already and the sany ide indicators. This and the rest of engine bay loom should lift out as one. I don't believe there is any other part of the loom that enters the dashboard area, other than what is already passing through where the BCM is.
    2001 Opel Corsa C SRi: Z20LET EDS stage 3.5 173.9kW @ the wheels Build thread and here on FB: http://www.facebook.com/corsasriz20let
    2018 Ford Transit 290S: Transit #2, in that order and it's also a POS
    1998 Opel Combo B: It has begun, and it's stalled - Build thread and FB page
    2009 Holden Commodore VE SS: Gen IV LS power for the inner bogan

  8. #18
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    nah it doesnt actually connect to the wipers it goes through firewall under the wipers. Its got us buggered it comes from the fuse box back up wraps around the back of where the bcm sits and goes through the firewall under the wipers.
    So the aim at the end of the day is to transplant the whole fuse box etc too i assume if thats the case we may just have to splice into those other wires. Thanks for your help mate

  9. #19
    OpelAus Forum Addict chris_r's Avatar
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    Have you removed the plastic cowling and the wiper motor assembly? Once you do this, you should see where this part of the loom runs. And which car are removing the loom from first?
    2001 Opel Corsa C SRi: Z20LET EDS stage 3.5 173.9kW @ the wheels Build thread and here on FB: http://www.facebook.com/corsasriz20let
    2018 Ford Transit 290S: Transit #2, in that order and it's also a POS
    1998 Opel Combo B: It has begun, and it's stalled - Build thread and FB page
    2009 Holden Commodore VE SS: Gen IV LS power for the inner bogan

  10. #20
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    removing it from the sri first. I'll go and check again. cheers

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