Reply With Quoteonly fill 98 RON and if you want more response from the engine use octane booster additive. get rid of K&N, you gain nothing from it, quite the opposite and you risk wearing out the engine prematurely because it lets small particles through.
Yes, I can confirm, had that once. I believe after lots of rain, water can also enter the tanks.Originally Posted by faneca
New, Peugeot 308 GTi 270 MY18 Pearlescent White.
Old, now in the capable hands of Sskustomz; 2013 Astra sport 1.6T, asteroid grey, AFL+ adaptive bi-xenon headlights, FlexRide adaptive chassis control, 19" wheels, group buy door sill plates, carbon tint, de-lettered, smoked side indicators, Mtech short shifter, GM pedal covers, EDS Motorsport ipf stage 1
http://www.opelaus.com/forums/showth...554#post821554
only fill 98 RON and if you want more response from the engine use octane booster additive. get rid of K&N, you gain nothing from it, quite the opposite and you risk wearing out the engine prematurely because it lets small particles through.
hey does anyone know when the sri t is due for a timing belt change? was last done at 91000kms and now has 130000kms.?
They're done every 60k, yours will be due at 151k. Do the entire kit and water pump too. Autovaux is also a cheap source for the genuine parts too, was around $190 plus shipping for the kit I got yesterday from them.
2001 Opel Corsa C SRi: Z20LET EDS stage 3.5 173.9kW @ the wheels Build thread and here on FB: http://www.facebook.com/corsasriz20let
2018 Ford Transit 290S: Transit #2, in that order and it's also a POS
1998 Opel Combo B: It has begun, and it's stalled - Build thread and FB page
2009 Holden Commodore VE SS: Gen IV LS power for the inner bogan
service book seems to say every 90000KMS? also has anyone removed the last muffler box and replaced it with straight pipe? was it expensive and was there any gain in sound or performance
The exhaust pipe is carefully calculated and designed by German engineers to provide a system that is a compromise between noise and performance. The complete pipe and silencer system are designed to extract the gases out of the engine efficiently. Any unprofessional changes to the system will most likely end up in loss of power. Don't tinker with it unless you know what you are doing. I bigger pipe does not necessarily mean better performance.
The exhaust gases flow in a pressure wave form which varies according to engine revs. Ideally a high pressure wave travelling through the pipe at each exhaust stroke provides a low pressure wake to suck the next wave out. Too large exhaust pipe may cause a standing wave thus acting as a blockage, in low revs.
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And all of that would be relivant, if it wasnt turbocharged.
Turbocharged bigger is better =) but only after the turbo, so dump pipe onwards.
Large exhaust = less resistance = more spool.
Holden Barina XC SRI
16.23 Second 1/4 Mile, No boost..... Yet
"-I'd rather loose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch cause someone else built it for me. Your car, is your story, so don't let someone else write the book." ~Moog
dunno im used to loud cars after 3 ss utes and wouldnt mind a bit off a growl from the sri i would use the same diameter pipe that opel used just delete the rear muffler.
Put a straight pipe in middle leave rear as is
Arden Blue VXR- EDS 335PS 480NM
Now
VW Golf R MK6 Stage 2+
hmmm, neither are particularly beautiful sounding engines, in my opinion, I like German straight 6 cylinders such as BMW and mercedes, so sophisticated and clean.
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