ECU Problems

[gman]

****en aye, how much did it cost you?

yeah with the paper clip test what i did was use a paper clip to short the 2 pins that you are ment to short going from a diagram. then hold the brake and accelerator together and switch to ignition and nothing happens just the light keeps flashing.

Apparently i fried the ecu cos of a voltage overload. I was rushing and put negative lead first then i was like oh **** and took it off then put positive then negative and didnt work.

Ahhh...ouch!!!!!!

Yep, I think you've definitely fried the ECU then...Mine happened when some low life tried to break into the car and shorted the battery out against the ECU body under the bonnet when they stuck something under to get to the bonnet catch/release...

The ECU was just over $1,000, labor and re-programmed to the keys etc should have been just over $250, however it was free as they owed me a favor from stuffing up a service years ago and they are trying to get my business back...

The only options you realistically have if the ECU is toast is to tow it to Holden, pay the $$$$'s and get them to fit and program a new ECU to the car...

Unless you can get a new ECU, security module, keys etc from somewhere and fit them yourself or get a trusted mechanic to do it...But they are almost impossible to find and getting it to work properly if you don;t do something right could end up an expensive waste of time, but you could try the Astra specialist wrecker in Sydney....

[SA33DS]

Ahhh...ouch!!!!!!

Yep, I think you've definitely fried the ECU then...Mine happened when some low life tried to break into the car and shorted the battery out against the ECU body under the bonnet when they stuck something under to get to the bonnet catch/release...

The ECU was just over $1,000, labor and re-programmed to the keys etc should have been just over $250, however it was free as they owed me a favor from stuffing up a service years ago and they are trying to get my business back...

The only options you realistically have if the ECU is toast is to tow it to Holden, pay the $$$$'s and get them to fit and program a new ECU to the car...

Unless you can get a new ECU, security module, keys etc from somewhere and fit them yourself or get a trusted mechanic to do it...But they are almost impossible to find and getting it to work properly if you don;t do something right could end up an expensive waste of time, but you could try the Astra specialist wrecker in Sydney....

yeap im hitting myself mate, are there any astra specialist mechanics?

[gman]

Sorry mate, not that I know of...

The problem is that when the ECU goes your dealing with the security and anti-theft systems and they usually need the actual dealer tech2 systems.

I've got a few ECU readers/programmers that can do just about anything and everything BUT writing the security codes to the ECU. Thats something that whilst not hard to do with the right hardware/software package (I actually help/watched the head mechanic do it and it took literally 3 minutes) is reserved for the dealer systems or the seriously expensive aftermarket/mechanic systems....

[SA33DS]

Sorry mate, not that I know of...

The problem is that when the ECU goes your dealing with the security and anti-theft systems and they usually need the actual dealer tech2 systems.

I've got a few ECU readers/programmers that can do just about anything and everything BUT writing the security codes to the ECU. Thats something that whilst not hard to do with the right hardware/software package (I actually help/watched the head mechanic do it and it took literally 3 minutes) is reserved for the dealer systems or the seriously expensive aftermarket/mechanic systems....

F***!!

I just don't know what to do

[auzvectra]

more bad news too, the 2.2L ecu is a lot dearer then the turbo's .
think it's around the 1600 mark.

just a random thought, have u tried the spare key, the light flashing when trying to start is also a bad immob signal?

althought from what u mentioned, it should have brought up a code for it when u tested it, u dont need to use the paperclip to test either, just brake n accel then turn ign on, while keepin both pedals down.

[SA33DS]

more bad news too, the 2.2L ecu is a lot dearer then the turbo's .
think it's around the 1600 mark.

just a random thought, have u tried the spare key, the light flashing when trying to start is also a bad immob signal?

althought from what u mentioned, it should have brought up a code for it when u tested it, u dont need to use the paperclip to test either, just brake n accel then turn ign on, while keepin both pedals down.

Lol i actually dont have a spare key. yeahhhh ****ed up aye.

Its all too much of a headache, im going to the holden service place in blacktown tomorrow to talk to them about it.

there is a point that you get to where you think for 2 grand why not spend a little more and chuck a z20let in LOL

lets see what happens

[auzvectra]

haha, i like that idea. dead ecu = reason for engine swap .

[JR]

oh man, wat a bummer!!!
a simple task of changing the battery....that's all it was.

i'm lucky nothing happened to my ecu when i changed the my battery - i didn't know anything about connecting up the positive terminal 1st, then the negative!!!
i must've got it right, without realising the potential consequences!!

hope u find a good n cheap replacement. from wat i've heard, astra, or any opels ecus for that matter, r a b1tch to replace n diagnose.

good luck mate

[SA33DS]

Thanks guys,

I went and spoke to one of holden's service centre advisor dudes and he said it shouldnt be a problem with the ecu, he also said that convertibles dont present fault codes from ems light lol

but he said most likely something happened to the immobiliser because the immobiliser cuts the fuel and air intake.

so I've booked to get it towed there on monday and get them to have a look at it. at this point i dont care i just want it fixed

will keep this thread updated, hopefully to provide information if someone else goes through this problem.

One thing i realise, when you change the battery in a remote control for example, try it now take the battery out and put it back in, which terminal makes contact first...... negative. I looked at some online stuff too and people say connecting negative shouldnt harm the engine.

and also i have figured out that it could have just been some sort of error, with the immobiliser, most defintly, im reliefed about, but cant wait till monday till i find out.

[gman]

Mate for your sake I hope its not the ECU and is just the immobiliser....