What have you done to your car lately?

[chris_r]

P0170 Fuel Trim (Bank 1)
P1615 Serial Communication with Device 15 (VTD, Vehicle Theft Deterrent)
P1616 is Wrong Vehicle ID from Instrument Control Module C-40
P1405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Solenoid High
B0443 Auxiliary heater fuel pump circuit malfunction


wut??

Your battery is possibly dying or the ECU is on the verge of breakdown (for the P1615 and P1616 codes. P0170 is often MAF related (also can be throttle body related). P1405, may possibly need to clean the EGR out. B0443, I'm not sure on.

[Jen]

Paid rego. Ouch!

[sskustomz]

Gutted the engine bay


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[DWS 92]

Kept my promise to it

[Raisin]

Banged my head against the wall a few times today. Pretty frustrated with the previous owner or workshop that worked on Ahyoka last.

So I went to do an oil change this morning and those of you who have SRi Turbos will know the filter is easiest to reach with the drivers side wheel off. So I grab a jack, jackstand, wheel brace and the rest of my toolkit. I take the plastic caps off the bolts and give the wheel brace a go. No movement. Ok, the wheel brace is new, maybe I'm just not used to the amount of force compared to a bar. So I strain and strain and strain against it, not mm of movement from the wheel nuts. Alright, I grab the torque wrench and set it to 110nm and flip the toggle from tighten to loosen for the rachet. Take it easy and squeeze onto the pressure, torque wrench starts clicking. The bolts are all torqued above 110nm, so I incriment it up trying to find it and they start giving at around 126nm. Who the hell did them up so tight, I have no idea, but my money is on a dodgy workshop.

Now I get all the bolts out and grab the wheel to pull it off. The wheel won't budge. I start pulling and pulling from different angles and the stubborn thing isn't giving at all. Infact the car is moving and the jack stand is starting to flex so I decide to calm down and get the WD40. I put the wheel nuts back in take the car down off the jack stand and liberally serve some WD40 into the center bore and along the back edge of the wheel against the hub. Fearing the worst I go and do all 4 wheels for save measure and leave it to sit. Meanwhile I gave the interior a full detail. Vaccumed, did stain removal on floor mats, cleaned all surfaces and cleaned and conditioned the leather. Once that was done the sun was starting to disappear so I decide to give the oil change one more crack quickly.

I get the car up on the jack stand, loosen the bolts a few turns, but leave them on so that the wheel doesn't come flying off. I give it a tug, still not budging. So I get my father for an extra set of hands and we place a block against the wheel and start knocking around with a hammer. It takes a good 5 minutes of hammering the block going around from spoke to spoke before the wheel moves a millimeter. A few more strikes and it's moving more freely, I take the bolts out and after a few good alternating left and right pulls the wheel pops off. The whole hub is rusted like crazy at the point where it enters the center bore of the wheel and the drive shaft pokes out. Just looking at it, the drive shaft is probably never going to come out of the hub if I ever need to take it off.

Anyway, so now the wheel is off I can do the oil change. So I get the oil pan out, get the new oil, new filter and grab my trusty Torx T45 bit. I slide down and reach under the car to crack the sump plug. Firstly it looks like a T40 has been used on it in the past so it's not in great shape. But, I carefully slip the T45 bit in, it's a snug fit, more than it usually is on the Corsa, but I make sure it's fully in and give it a shot. Only, it's taking far more force than usual, hmm. Slowly and gently I keep easing on the pressure and finally start to feel some give, but suddenly have the horrific feeling every car guy gets. That wasn't the bolt moving, it's stripped! $*@*^#^##@!!!!! SERIOUSLY? WHO THE HELL TIGHTENED IT SO DAMN MUCH! IT WAS ATLEAST DOUBLE THE TORQUE NEEDED! By now the sun was all but gone and my patience was long gone so I will just order a replacement sump plug and fight to get it out next weekend.

So I don't know what nutjob worked on it last, but they seem to have felt the need for far too much torque on every damn nut and bolt they have done up in the car. Now I'm out several hours of wasted time, have a stripped sump plug and potentially seized driveshaft splines in my hubs. And I have 2 coolant leaks, although they seem to be a case of poor pipe seating and clamping.

I am particularly peeved because I am legally allowed to start driving the car next weekend and wanted to have everything sorted so I could go for a nice relaxing drive, now I have more work to do before then.

[Shadow110]

Welcome to performance car ownership raisin!!!... man thats not very good buddy, shoot me a message if you need some help I know of a few ways to help out/ specific tools to help. And no its not a sledgehammer.

[Raisin]

Welcome to performance car ownership raisin!!!... man thats not very good buddy, shoot me a message if you need some help I know of a few ways to help out/ specific tools to help. And no its not a sledgehammer.

Thanks man I'll keep it in mind. I'll give it a crack next weekend and see how I go. I've calmed down a little bit, but needless to say I was a little worked up mainly because all the problems are caused by some dimwit with a heavy hand previously.

[SilentShout]

... I carefully slip the T45 bit in, it's a snug fit, more than it usually is on the Corsa,........ it's stripped! $*@*^#^##@!!!!! SERIOUSLY? WHO THE HELL TIGHTENED IT SO DAMN MUCH! IT WAS ATLEAST DOUBLE THE TORQUE NEEDED!

I found the t45 was looseish on my C, gave it a full turn with a standard ratchet (not even getting the breaker bar out) and long behold bits of the plug fall on my face.

I though it was because the plug was plastic but maybe its because it was torqued too tight. Id love to get a standard hex nut replacement sump like NORMAL cars have


currently when i do oil changes im using a siphoning pump down the dipstick, its not fool proof and i dont like doing it but i need to do something to change the oil.

I had half a mind to take it to a shop to get the thing drilled out and a standard one put in, no idea where to go on the coast though, all the mechanics around here are either Midas or ultra tune, and i dont fancy paying for a 14 year old boy with a power tool to get near my z18xe

[SilentShout]

Your battery is possibly dying or the ECU is on the verge of breakdown (for the P1615 and P1616 codes. P0170 is often MAF related (also can be throttle body related). P1405, may possibly need to clean the EGR out. B0443, I'm not sure on.

The MAF is new and checks out, the 1615 and 1616 codes im thinking are thrown each time the dash does that fancy christmas lights on off thing that most C's suffer (takes a nice punch on the dash to get it back in place)

the B0443 was because i unplugged that ticking thing under the bonnet as i read somewhere that it has some influence on the EGR valve and as stated before i dont like the idea of having unmetered exhaust gas enter the engine a second time, pretty sure this is why the car keeps coughing and spluttering and misfiring. tried a second coil pack off a mates astra (also with the 1.8) and same thing so its not the coil pack, havnt removed the egr yet but wouldnt mind getting a blanking plate from somewhere. (you said before the astra g has one, but theres one online that lets you keep the egr valve there and plugged in so the ecu doesnt throw a CEL)

I had thought it was the o2 sensor but theres no error codes coming up for them at all.

and the plugs were replaced less than 2 weeks ago.

[tbclose]

Installed a dash cam in the Vectra the other day. It seems to be a trend on the increase plus I just can't get over the number of close calls I've had lately with cars who's drivers just don't bother to look both ways and pull out at you. It only cost me $60 on eBay for a front and rear system and whilst the picture isn't fantastic, it'll help if I am unlucky one day.