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  1. #11
    OpelAus Post Whore EL BURITO's Avatar
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    I have the Kumo KU31 on the rear of the XR, Was looking to replace the P Zero on the front with the same.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sssdriver Click here to enlarge
    God bless hoons, without them tying up police resources my methlab would have been raided aeons ago!:uhh:

  2. #12
    OpelAus Enthusiast 9090GO's Avatar
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    Try the Toyo Proxes 4 or the Yokohama S-Drive, both pretty good.
    Old - Holden/Opel Astra G Vert
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  3. #13
    OpelAus Forum Addict R3N's Avatar
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    had toyo proxes4 on the SRiT rims i had before, but no where near as much power as what you have so can't comment. Should listen to gman re the torque steer wear. i've got potenza 040s on my s15 atm and have been in a car with potenza 001s, very grippy
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  4. #14
    OpelAus Lurker auzvectra's Avatar
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    thanks all Click here to enlarge.
    yeah ren i always listen very closely to what glen has to say Click here to enlarge.
    '04 Sri-T Z23LET - latest stages underway - Slowly - Even slower - $5K over budget :-/
    **Qld** Astra TS Turbo Tuner.

  5. #15
    OpelAus Enthusiast mr corsa's Avatar
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    mickey thompson et street radials have grip
    "LAG IS JUST FOREPLAY"
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by gman Click here to enlarge
    Toyo's and Falkens are 2nd rate cheap rubbish? Check the sidewalls, treads or compounds on an Toyo R888, T1R or Falken RT615...

    So what about the Bridestones that delaminated on my STi and the one that my Astra SRi-T ripped the tread blocks off?

    Or the Michelin Pilot Sports that blistered on a GT3 I was driving/a passenger in so badly that they were basically undrivable after a "sprited" drive? Vibration above 40KPH had me seeing double for a week!!!!!

    I have raced on Falkens and Toyo's (as well as Dunlops, Kuhmo's, Hoosier, BFG, Nitto & Bridgestone) and seriously question such a HUGELY sweeping statement....
    He was wasn't talking about the R888 or RT615 in the original question (both are not cheap). He seemed to be looking at the cheaper end of the tyre market.

    We aren't talking about race/track compound (so exclude the R888, R1R etc) and neither will the tyres be attached to a AWD Sti or rwd Porsche GT3 (mind you the standard tyres on that are... Michelins) Click here to enlarge

    I can attest that the Preceda 2 will not only grip well, but also resist tread delamination under hard use (several snowy mtn runs etc). Backed up by very good wet weather grip , reasonable tyre life and a quiet ride.

    BF Goodrich, afaik, is a michelin owned company.

  7. #17
    OpelAus Post Whore gman's Avatar
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rjastra Click here to enlarge
    He was wasn't talking about the R888 or RT615 in the original question (both are not cheap). He seemed to be looking at the cheaper end of the tyre market.

    We aren't talking about race/track compound (so exclude the R888, R1R etc) and neither will the tyres be attached to a AWD Sti or rwd Porsche GT3 (mind you the standard tyres on that are... Michelins) Click here to enlarge

    I can attest that the Preceda 2 will not only grip well, but also resist tread delamination under hard use (several snowy mtn runs etc). Backed up by very good wet weather grip , reasonable tyre life and a quiet ride.

    BF Goodrich, afaik, is a michelin owned company.
    Actually, whilst he enquired after a few tyres specifically, he asked for "recommendations", which has an open ended quality to it I think, hence my recommendations given his specifc circumstances.

    Matt asked for a recommendation including considerations of cost, performance and his cars power/torque. I took these into account in my post.The same I would for other things, like you wouldn't offer a fat chick tight white hot pants....

    The RT615's aren't expensive and would in all likely hood be cheaper than the Preceda 2's you mentioned and the Bridgestone's, Yokohama's or other more expensive brands.

    The Toyo T1R's or R1R's are not a track tyre either, they are (quote):

    "Ultra High Performance flagship tyre for extreme performance. The Proxes R1R provides maximum traction in both wet and dry weather for car enthusiasts who desire ultimate performance".

    Just like the RT615. Regardess of how people sell them, neither of these are real R-Compound / Semi Slick / Track Tyres. Check the UTQG rating....They are not that soft....

    The Toyo R888 is an R-Compound tyre, but hardly expensive in comparison to others, r-compound, ultra or just plain high performance. You can get a full set of 4 for $1200-ish. You could barely get 2 or 3 Dunlop, Yokohama's or Bridgestone R-Compounds for that money!!! The RT615 are even cheaper...

    Additionally the R888's are used on alot of Porsches, albeit not as standard equipment as they are a pretty good semi and tend to out last the others while not being that much slower. I had them on my STi and they are also now on the GT3 that I drove that used to have a standard set of Michelin's. However they seemed to blister after a good thrashing...Something about overheating we were told be the local Michelin rep.

    So in summary, standard tyres with standard tread designs are going to struggle with high powered cars, expecially FWD or 4WD cars as the tyres are forced to endure high torque loadings and excessive slip angles whilst trying to alter direction (steer), transfer torque/power (accelerate) and brake (deccelerate) the car. More so than a RWD or standard FWD /4WD car.

    if your looking for proof, check a standard performance tyre after a track day. They are usually feathered on the edges, tread blocks missing and benerally in very poor shape.

    As such, these extra forces tend to manifest certain probelms in standard tyres with high void ratio's for water clearance, namely tread block overheating and eventual failure (resulting in tread block removal from the carcass) and possibly entire tread face delamination from overheating of the carcass (see above comments).

    IMHO, using a cheaper tyre on a high performance FWD specifially (as in this case) where they must perform all duties (stop, steer, accelerate, decelerate) is not only dangerous and throwing away performance but false economy.

    A carefully choosen tyre with the right compound and void ratio may cost more initially but last twice as long as one that gets ripped apart and/or wears quicker due to tread block/carcass overheating.

    In light of the above considerations I made said recommendations based on my own prior experience and knowledge of Matt's possible requirements.
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  8. #18
    OpelAus Lurker auzvectra's Avatar
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    few more prices today, now the fact that i will have to pay more then i wanted to is hittin homr Click here to enlarge.

    so still got the bf's for 275 which i already have 2 of at the moment.

    the t1r's for $310
    and r888's were $435 (i think, was a long day)
    and rt615's for $310

    to change the question slightly, i will keep the bf's on the rear wit some newby's on the front. would ne of these be reasonably better overall (km's, grip, handing, ect...) to the bf's?
    is it better to keep the same tread all round, i think the commodores get unsettled (moreso) if u change tread from front to rear?
    i think the bf's are a high km tyre also, i have been told by a couple of tyre companies that the bf's beta then the others, but they just sell their own product neway (or main product).
    '04 Sri-T Z23LET - latest stages underway - Slowly - Even slower - $5K over budget :-/
    **Qld** Astra TS Turbo Tuner.

  9. #19
    OpelAus Post Whore gman's Avatar
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    Which BF''s are you using??

    that seems high for the RT615's...What size were they?

    The R888's also looks expensive...Check out Oz eBay:

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/4-X-NEW-215-4...3A1%7C294%3A50
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  10. #20
    OpelAus Post Whore gman's Avatar
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    That was the other tyres...Federal's RS959 and Hankook's new ones...they are mean't to be pretty good too...
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