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  1. #1
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    2001 Astra TS CD (G) Hatch CPU HELPPPPP

    Existing problems observed with car:
    • idle revving between 700-1000rpm
    • when driving cold, engine light comes on - i turn it off, turn it back on and it's ok after that
    • when cold, there'll be a whistling noise at the same rate as i step on the accelerator (only for first 2 - 5 mins)
    • sometimes takes a while to start car as (chugs into life)
    Latest Major problem:
    • Last Friday, took about 5 seconds to start car from key-turn
    • drove 2 mins and engine cut out
    • wouldn't start for next 10 mins
    • managed to drive it around to the mechanics
    What mechanics say:
    • Sent CPU away for error code reading and CPU testing
    • Faulty CPU - heats up and shuts off fuel to engine. when cold, will start again.
    • At the moment, trying to fix that particular part of the CPU
    • However, a new CPU will cost me $1350 from Holden
    Has anyone experienced similar problems?
    Is there a cheaper alternative to a new CPU from Holden?
    Is this mechanic shtting me?!
    Can anyone offer any other solutions?

    Cheers,

    Tony
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  2. #2
    OpelAus Enthusiast DirtyHarry's Avatar
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    where abous are you tony?
    Make me a sandwich.

  3. #3
    OpelAus Forum Regular NEMO's Avatar
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    I had similar problems with my old G.... had to change the ecu.. lucky is was still under warranty

  4. #4
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    I'm in / around south east melbourne

  5. #5
    OpelAus Enthusiast Keep'emRunning's Avatar
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    Sounds a bit extreme to suspect the ecu straight up.

    If fuel is in fact shutting off, more likely to be an intermittent fuel pump relay (enclosed @ rear right hand side engine bay) If the relay is hot it's probably bad.. I had the same thing happen when the car was almost new. $10 for a new relay and all was sweet again.

    Should have put a mark on your relay to see if they are trying to make some easy money Click here to enlarge

    if it's the ecu... get a second hand unit from a wrecker.. the only downside is that it will probably have to be reflashed with a tech2 by a dealership.

    Get a realtime diagnostic & code check before replacing anything expensive though.
    Last edited by Keep'emRunning; 5th March 2008 at 01:24 PM.

  6. #6
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    nar he originally suspected the crank sensor or cambelt-something-or-other.

    he did test the fuel pump independantly and the ecu as well, and the ecu came up as faulty.

    so now i can either get a new one or second hand. i chose 2nd hand and they're getting it recoded at a dealership.

    so that might cost me around 800-900...

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