Just made a Rear Strut Brace!!

[Gildo]

well this morning, i had an idea.... to make my own rear strut brace.
basically i got myself a thick piece of metal, 6mm thick, 85mm wide and 1060mm long.

Basically i just linked it to the top of the suspension mounts in the boot.

Honoustly, it made a difference, car feels alot more rigid around corners and over bumbs, and have noticed that the wheel lifts off the floor more when going up uneven surfaces (Driveways).

very happy with the mod as it only cost me $10.20

will get pics up 2moz

[oneightoo]

nice work mate!

would be good to see the pics..

[EL BURITO]

hummm sounds intresting

[lowey22]

sounds too good to be true, but i guess thats all a strut brace is?

[Gildo]

yeh exactly, i was reading other forums, and i found pics of people who have made ther own and addapted it to my corsa. did the job. :D
should go take pics later or 2moz

[pred8r]

waiting patiently for the pics

[Gildo]

sorry to disapoint, but there no pics atm, just went for a long drive to prove to myself and a mate that it wasnt all in my head.
and its true, its deffinatly not all in my head,
i tested this out by not telling him what i did, after a few corners he says "your back end is alot more stable what have you done"?
there was my answer.
works v,well
best $10.20 i have ever spent! hehehe

[EL BURITO]

Ok I am going to need a tutorial now

[mr_sikma]

sounds good.

and yeah all they are is a piece of metal mounted from one side to the other!

[pred8r]

and yeah all they are is a piece of metal mounted from one side to the other!
Like this; (take note people - LEATHER.....did we get it here? NoOOoo!)
http://www.corsasport.co.uk/carimages/1382/strut2.jpg

still patiently waiting :D:eek::D:eek:

[PaulyJ]

Hell yeah i want pics!
With the car off the road, i have some time to get this done.

[Clint]

i think you should use a pipe rather than flat metal, it will be stronger, won't flex like flat metal can, and for strength vs weight pipe is much better. you should be able to grip the end in a vice to crush it flat where you want to mount it.

[PaulyJ]

Thats an idea too...

[InsaneAsylum]

what happens when you need to put something large in your boot?

[tmov81]

yeah a pipe would be better as its strength is evenly distributed... a straight bar will as clint said be weaker in a certain direction...

you can also use a lighter pipe and get more strength for less weight...

[Gildo]

PIC ------ http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b174/Gildo1/DSC03394.jpg

[Gildo]

yes i thought of that,
but if you look the suspenion mounts r angled, and i didnt want to have a flat piece on top, just incase it put to much stress on it where it was mounted.
i used a flate piece because at the time i could bend it to the correct angle, and i will(hopefully)
re-inforce this with a piece of metal down the middle once i get my hands on a welder and thus will make it 100% rigid.

[InsaneAsylum]

is it just me or is the link to the pic stuffed?

[PaulyJ]

just you mate, just you

[Clint]

didnt work for me either

[Gildo]

just fixed it, sorry

[oneightoo]

works a-ok for me..

[InsaneAsylum]

thanks for fixing the link

[PaulyJ]

With it being so easy to do on the rear, how easy would it be to make one for the front?

[oneightoo]

you'd have to put a few bends in, shouldnt be too hard i wouldnt imagine.. you'd want a tube tho..

[PaulyJ]

yeah only a tube.
But how hard would the bends be to make?

[oneightoo]

how much patience do you have? you could bend it in a vice.. or heat the metal and bend it that way..

[Turblue]

WARNING....!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do not tie the front struts together. Tie the strut towers together. You MUST remember that the struts change position within the tower. Pop your bonnet and look at the tops of the struts while turning the steering wheel.

I was surprized at how much the struts move.

[PaulyJ]

I have pateince and will work on things till i'm happy with it.
I think i'll just get one sent from the UK

[oneightoo]

yeah that sounds a good idea actually..

[tmov81]

i remember reading somewhere that strut braces arent allowed by some insurers... could be total bull.. but the justification was that if someone hits you in the side, the car cannot crumple properly and the strut will cause more damage to the vehicle than would have happened if it wasnt there :s

prob just crap, but its probably a good idea to double check... better safe than sorry when it comes to insurers because they are jerks :(

[CAL.16V]

its more the fact that if you damage one side the force will transfer to the other side through the connected strut towers and damage the other side

[auzvectra]

but it would also reduce the risk of an accident, as it keeps more even distribution of traction to the ground.
they don think of it that way but unfortunately :(

[pred8r]

no one has said it yet since the pic was posted so;

Good one, for $10 with a positive result, thats how car modding is supposed to be.

[Gildo]

thanks was waiting for a reply like that:D
lol
yeh very happy, been on a couple of proper tests now, and can say its def worth doing.
im going to make another one soon, out of a circular bar and make it adjustable.
will get pics up soon

[PaulyJ]

DUmb question, but how do you make them adjustable?

[Gildo]

im going to have a thread with a lock in the middle,
so unscrew pushes struts out, and visa versa,
will work wonders:D

[Poogene2001]

I dont mean to rain on anyones parade here, but whats the point? Other than to pass some time and experiment with a bit of automotive engineering, i dont really get it. For starters, we are dealing with a 92kw 4 cylinder city run about... not exactly performance car credentials but a nippy little handler already from what i understand. How much tangible handling improvement could you really get from a do-it-yourself rear end strut brace applied to a front drive car? How much extra traction do you realistically think you are gaining by stiffening up the passive rear end. And is this perceived handling improvement worth sacrificing the usability, practicality and appearance of your boot for?
I'm all for modifying your vehicle if it actually improves it, but in this case the negatives (including possibly voiding your insurance by not disclosing all modifications done to the vehicle) seem to far out-weigh the positives (if infact there are any at all). Just my opinion, and if i am wrong, I'll be the 1st one reading the "how-to" guide in the technical section of this forum!

[opel697]

I agree, pipe/ tube steel is the way to go, greater surface area = better rigidity, nice work, $10.20 Bargain.

[Turblue]

Quote Whiteline site....

The reason is that a MacPherson Strut integrates the wheels upper link point into the actual strut. Hence a significant proportion of wheel load is located by and dealt with the strut. Vertical loads from the wheel pass through the strut and spring up to the strut top and towers which leads to flex in the sheet metal around the strut tower and inner guard. In fact, we've measured up to 15mm of flex on some cars which translates to up to 1 deg of dynamic camber change. Some vehicles will benefit more than others with age being a factor. But, even the newest vehicles have some rigidity problems due to the method of construction. Many new cars have the complete firewall and dash assembly lowered through the windscreen aperture then glued in place. This may actually be more rigid in some directions as claimed by the car makers but we know that fitting a strut tower brace on these vehicles makes a very noticeable difference.

Basically, adding bracing prevents chassis/suspension flex. This helps prevents dynamic changes in the suspension alignment. That one degree of camber, stays one degree.

[Gildo]

poogene.....where to start.....
1. not voiding insurance as it was added today.
2. drivability....it increases drivability, makes the car more chuckable and stable throughout corners.
3. i already have a sub in my boot, i had no space anyways, sub still fits in and the odd jumper / bag can go on the back seat.
4. the look is changing as its going to be black not noticable, aswell as a new cylindrical design.
5. the handling increase is so noticable my friend who was in the car noticed it , and i didnt tell him about it
6. i wouldnt really call it a pasive rear end, once down 1.5 inches and with 7" wide tires, the rear end likes to get a bit happy around some corners due to there being no real weight in the back.
7. You will def be reading a how to on this, as there is a noticable improvement. read the U.K forums on rear sway bars for corsa's all say noticable improvment. A DIY job can do it the same as a baught product, and for $10.20 its well worth it.!

[Bernard Siong]

yea man dont be so negative
if he wants to rice up his car let him...

lol jkz

man as long as ur happy with it... why not aye
10.20 bargain! sounds like the best 10.20 anyone can spend on their ride

[R3N]

yea man dont be so negative
if he wants to rice up his car let him...

lol jkz

man as long as ur happy with it... why not aye
10.20 bargain! sounds like the best 10.20 anyone can spend on their ride

best 10.20 i spent on my car was probably blue bulbs

[pred8r]

im going to have a thread with a lock in the middle,
so unscrew pushes struts out, and visa versa,
will work wonders:D
if you use a nut on each end of the threaded bit, without welding one, no matter which you turned in the 'correct' direction (even if it rotated the threaded rod) it would still wind out. The chances of it spinning both nuts once loaded would be slim. Or use 2 nuts each side (one to lock it once adjusted).

Just a thought but what would the effect, on the handling, be of over adjusting? apart from snapping the strut tops off

A similar design ive seen uses 2 flat plates (like a t shape) and bolts between the towers on the sides.

[Gildo]

i was showing a mate last nite and he said he would make a proper one for me, but i dont see the purpose of adjustablility, i think im just going to make the "T" shape, just weld a new piece on the top. stop the bending

[auzvectra]

i have been considerin making 1 myself, thanks u've given me the extra inspiration i needed :).
might get done in the next 6 months now :)

[Turblue]

Strut braces are NOT about altering the alignment by forcing struts or shocks out of their natural positions.

Strut braces ARE about preventing shift in the alignment.

Before someone does some real damage to their car, please research what braces actually do, and how they are designed and fitted.

[Gildo]

just to check what i think it is.....isnt it just about keeping the struts in the same position as they are when the car is stationary throughout the corer instead of shifting???.....

[Bernard Siong]

i honeslty dont get how they work
thought i have them on my car..
always thought they were to make the chasis more rigid... which in turn helps keeping the car more flatter and reduce body flex
but i cant really feel a BIG difference...

[pred8r]

just to check what i think it is.....isnt it just about keeping the struts in the same position as they are when the car is stationary throughout the corer instead of shifting???.....

Chassis stiffening to reduce geometry changes during body flex, at a guess.

Also, brake master cylinder braces are supposed to assist in braking due to firewall flex around the booster. dont know where youd fit one under the 'rina bonnet though

[Turblue]

Have a look at this pic. It is a snap of one of my strut brace ends mounted to the strut tower.

http://fileshare.turblue.com/strutbrace/DSCF0095.JPG

The black disc is attached to the top of the strut, and in effect stops it from falling out. Notice the gap between the disk and the brace.?? This is there due to the amount of movement the strut actually has..!!!! HEAPS..!!!!

I would not get out of my garage before I broke something if I tied the strut tops together. Pop your bonnet and have a look at how much the strut tops move when you turn the steering wheel lock to lock.

Bernard: Yes, they help stiffen the chassis. This in turn helps prevent tower flex so that the alignment does not vary.

Pred8r: Correct.

Gildo: 1/2 right. It's about holding the towers in place. NOT the struts.!!!

[pred8r]

Gildo, a thought on doing it the way you are;

If there is so much chassis twist/loading to affect the mounting point (ie strut top), if one were to break youd really be in the crap.
Have you considered making a T and bolting into the tower through the top of the "T" section. I can see good and bad points to this though.

Just a potential safety/risk assessment thought, on the long term side of using one mounted like the one you made.

[PaulyJ]

Stolen from LMFVauxhall about strut braces

"When installed, they help limit chassis flexing and reduce movements of the inner wings by strengthening the front suspension turrets. This helps maintain a stable suspension geometry, giving increased road holding and reduced tyre wear."

Hope that helps

[GAZ914]

Quote Whiteline site....

The reason is that a MacPherson Strut integrates the wheels upper link point into the actual strut. Hence a significant proportion of wheel load is located by and dealt with the strut. Vertical loads from the wheel pass through the strut and spring up to the strut top and towers which leads to flex in the sheet metal around the strut tower and inner guard. In fact, we've measured up to 15mm of flex on some cars which translates to up to 1 deg of dynamic camber change. Some vehicles will benefit more than others with age being a factor. But, even the newest vehicles have some rigidity problems due to the method of construction. Many new cars have the complete firewall and dash assembly lowered through the windscreen aperture then glued in place. This may actually be more rigid in some directions as claimed by the car makers but we know that fitting a strut tower brace on these vehicles makes a very noticeable difference.

Basically, adding bracing prevents chassis/suspension flex. This helps prevents dynamic changes in the suspension alignment. That one degree of camber, stays one degree.


So if Corsas had a strut rear end, maybe it would be useful.

Corsas DO NOT have a strut rear end and therefore the suspension loads that we are talking about are not handled by the shock absorber mounts that the bar is attached to.

Have a look at the rear springs and see where the suspension loads do go to.

A decent bar "might" add a slight amount of rigidity to the rear of the car but a piece of flat (sorry to rain on your parade) would have way too much flex to be useful (we are talking millimeters here, not .

As for the front, look at how the firewall is welded to the stut towers. Do you think that maybe Opel thought about using the firewall as a strut brace when they designed the car?

If you look at many Jap cars, where the strut towers are halfway between the firewall and the headlights, no doubt a decent strut brace does wonders for them.

WRXs etc have struts in the rear as well, so again a strut brace is good.

cheers
Gaz

[Gildo]

i understand exactly what you are saying, but have a look at the rear braces designed for the corsa C
e.g raid HP one
connects the exact same way.
for now the way is just going to be reinforced to stop the minimal flex it has, but there is deffinatly an improvment in handling.

[pred8r]

So if Corsas had a strut rear end, maybe it would be useful.

Corsas DO NOT have a strut rear end and therefore the suspension loads that we are talking about are not handled by the shock absorber mounts that the bar is attached to.
Correct me if im wrong, but, isnt a spring thats wrapped around a shocker a strut? in which case the barina has 4, 2 front 2 back.

Edit: ill correct myself as to the difference. Basically, a 'shock' has a mounting/locating bolt, a 'strut' is integral and both may or may not be wrapped in a spring

[GAZ914]

Correct me if im wrong, but, isnt a spring thats wrapped around a shocker a strut? in which case the barina has 4, 2 front 2 back.

Sorry but you are wrong about the rear suspension in a Corsa (B or C).

Please look at the suspension specs published by Holden in the attached *.pdf.

http://home.exetel.com.au/gaz914net/BarinaSRi.pdf



SUSPENSION
Front: MacPherson strut. Wishbones. Gas pressure dampers.
Stabiliser bar.
Rear: Torsion beam & trailing arms. Progressive rate miniblock
coil springs. Gas pressure dampers. Stabiliser bar.



cheers
Gaz

[GAZ914]

A couple of links that may be useful :)

http://e30m3performance.com/myths/Strutbar_Theory/strut_bar_theory.htm

http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/suspension/tech_suspension1.htm

(Check out the Golf rear suspension and it is pretty much what the Corsas have).

Cheers
Gaz

[mr corsa]

heres a a better way to stiffen up ur rear end :eek:

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/3250/rollbar3ee.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Gildo]

gotta love martin c's bucket

[pred8r]

Thats method of connecting the bar i mean, in the bottom of the rollcaged C, between the shocker towers

[Gildo]

http://corsa-c.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=38675
http://corsa-c.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=20787

its really not, thats a different thing. Have a look at that, will prove it