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juz
3rd February 2005, 02:08 PM
:wink: can any one tell me how or where i can install it. Had a performance place try and install it and the engine warning light came on.

mr_astra_retired
3rd February 2005, 04:26 PM
You cant boost the astra T with a boost controller without a fuel cut defender and even still you wont find it work too well !

When you boost the astra T 2 pound over standard max boost , it sends the ecu into safety mods (limp mode) and you need to get holden to clear the code , or take the battery terminal off !

A good way to boost the astra is a powerchip remaped ecu , unichip or the haltec interceptor.

Rhino
4th February 2005, 02:44 PM
...and even still you wont find it work too well!
I'm hurt!

I'm running EBC with FCD and it works fine. The only side effect is that the warning light comes on and the code reads (not receiving signal from boost controller). Performance in my car (as you know) is not affected.

Technically, the car can't go into limp mode because:
a) even if it did, you are forcing it to boost - you must use FCD to overcome this.
b) thanks to the FCD, the ecu doesn't know you are overboosting - it simply uses O2 sensors and adjusts AFR accordingly to keep laying on the power.

Given that I modded my car before they were remappable in OZ, I'm sticking with the 'bolton' solution simply because of $.

The advantage of the EBC is that you can give consistant boost through all gears where as the remmapped ECU reduces power in low gears.

The advantage of remapping, is that you avoid scrutinisation by insurance companies and police, car is tuned better, and no warning light.

Wayne (Turblue) took my car for a drive and thought it actually put the power down a bit smoother than the PowerChip... He would be a good one to talk to since he has driven both a remapped and EBC powered car.

mr_astra_retired
4th February 2005, 04:55 PM
I'm hurt!
Sorry Ryan , i had a mate try this system and didnt work too well , i was refering to a manual boost control , not electronic , my bad, should of worded it better , i did forget yours did a low 14 sec pass with the EBC and FCD fitted :oops:

Dont hate me fella lol

All in all , agree 100% with ya Ryan , without the FCD this system wont work on this car !!

Rhino
4th February 2005, 05:33 PM
I can't stay mad at you Steve. Look at that punum...

I concur with the bleed valve. I did try this first as a $ saver and had it swapped within days.

It is too hit and miss to set a ceiling for your boost as it is inconsistent across gears.

With the EBC you can set a limit and reduce boost by X% if that gets reached...

EBC + FCD or remap for best results juz

Turblue
4th February 2005, 05:41 PM
Tried manual boost control with an FCD. IT WAS A NIGHTMARE..!!!!!!!
I was constantly setting the ecu into limp. Luckily I have a code reader that can reset the ecu.....

So, an EBC would be a better choice.

However....

An EBC and FCD would cost around $600-1,000+ depending on what you use. A remap from Powerchip is $990.

I have driven the Rhino-mobile, and I felt that is was, in some ways, smoother. I guess that is because the boost is constant, and not variable.

For reference:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/wgiebel/Installation%20Guide%20For%20Astra%20Sri%20Turbo%2 0Vehicles.doc

bigg_vin
13th May 2007, 04:51 PM
sorry to resurrect an old post

but i am looking at fitting a turbotech boost controller to my astra turbo, will this present the same problems as a bleed type controller?

also, what is the stock boost on an astra SRI turbo, 2002?

thanks

blueraven
13th May 2007, 07:16 PM
get the remap instead, cheaper, safer, better :)

auzvectra
13th May 2007, 09:53 PM
as blueraven said :D.
where abouts are you located?

bigg_vin
13th May 2007, 10:26 PM
im in (mt waverley) melbourne.....

i kinda already bought the turbotech unit cos it worked a treat on my KE laser.... but i guess that a much less complex piece of machinery compared to the astra!

can i run it at all, say even to run 12psi?

how would that compare to stock?

whats it cost to get a remap?

cheers

auzvectra
14th May 2007, 07:56 PM
u can run up to 12.33psi before limp mode will kick in ;)
without a fuel cut defender that is.
it will go better, but not a massive increase.
u will have to pm turblue about the tune, he is in ur area, i beleive he is working on getting enough interest to order a few modules, to make it realistic.

bigg_vin
15th May 2007, 09:34 PM
when you say fuel cut defender, can u use something similar to what they have at jaycar?

also, i am still interested in fitting hte manual boost controller until i can get the remap done, can some one please either post a pic, or explain exactly which line to cut and fit the controller to?

thanks

blueraven
16th May 2007, 12:37 AM
get the remap instead, cheaper, safer, better :)

and easier than fitting either a boost controller or fuelcut defender.

auzvectra
16th May 2007, 07:24 PM
oh and a warning a FCD will bring up a fault, and the emmissions light!

bigg_vin
16th May 2007, 09:29 PM
ok...

now, i want to fit a manual boost controller... at the moment, i dont really care that the remap is easier, and that the fuel cut defender will present problems....

i would just like to please know where to install the controller....

and what stock boost is...

thanks again

auzvectra
16th May 2007, 09:57 PM
stock boost spikes to about 12 psi, n drops to about 7 psi.
limp mode is activated at 12.33 psi.
although it's wierd mine spike every now n then to 15psi stock, with nop limp mode, and went to 10psi sometimes n hit limp mode!
but is that the info you want?

bigg_vin
17th May 2007, 04:24 PM
ok, thanks for that.... that is very useful information....

so even on a stock ecu, urs spiked to 15psi? and did it go into limp mode?

also, the pipe that i can install the controller on would be great!

thanks again

auzvectra
17th May 2007, 05:36 PM
it didnt go into limp mode at 15psi, but it's sposed to.
hang of a sec is this an electronic boost controller or a bleed valve?
cause if it's a bleed vlave type, then be very carefull with it, they tend to spike big time.

bigg_vin
17th May 2007, 06:33 PM
it neither....

its more like a bleed type, but its acutally a ball bearing type....

so i does not spike, but it still is not as good as an electronic one....

it normally just gets installed between the turbop/intake pipe, and teh wastegate......

just wondering where this would be in the 2003 astra turbo...

cheers

blueraven
17th May 2007, 09:14 PM
how about between the turbo and the wastegate pipe ;)

if you dont know where the wastegate actuator is, then you really shouldnt be doing this yourself.

auzvectra
18th May 2007, 07:20 AM
the boost solenoid is on the front of the turbo, u will be using the black/red hoses goin to this, but as BR said, make sure u do it right, or you can hit lots of boost very quick, and blow the motor/turbo before limp mode can cut it out.
you do have a boost gauge right?

bigg_vin
18th May 2007, 10:54 AM
Yes i have a boost gauge!

thanks again

gman
18th May 2007, 11:08 AM
Interesting discussion...I hve the re-flash and now an EBC...For the first time the other day I got an error code...strange thing the Traction control light came on not the ECU error light (little spanner). The car went into limp mode and pulled all the timing out of the car and started dumping fuel..

Did some research and if after 3 seperate runs periods if the fault does not return the ECU automatically clears the code...And it worked...But then it happened again....

Now question is what is causing it?? Is it an overboost thing (too much boost in 2nd or 3rd which are the gears it happened in and I was thrashing the car both times) or a pinging problem or maybe something else??? I can't read the ECU error codes as I don't have the right program.. But the fact its the traction control light and not the spanner light has got me worried.......

Idea's anyone????

auzvectra
18th May 2007, 11:24 AM
torque limit maybe?
i know my t/c disabled itself when i had the new turbo, too much power, then t/c couldnt keep up and just gave up n switched off :D

gman
18th May 2007, 12:08 PM
Yeah thought it could be a torque /LSD releated issue...Turned the TC off but still happened...Was thinking of pulling the fuse and see what happened but never got around to it.....

blueraven
18th May 2007, 01:02 PM
wont be a torque issue ;) ..mine has enough torque to break traction on occasion in 3rd so it cant be that.

i will put my money on the boost, perhaps its gone over the new boost limit set by the reflash? could be detonation..had you afrs checked on a dyno?

dunno why it was the traction control light tho :P could be the infamous AFM issue that the uk guys have that none of us seem to get?

gman
18th May 2007, 03:12 PM
A/F is all good been checked on the road and dyno...

Personally thinking is an overboost thing.....May be the AFM...Was going to go up to the 80mm AFM but don't knwo which way to turn....

nadg63
18th May 2007, 04:56 PM
When my SRiT was going mental over a period of months, it too kept showing the T/C light as a fault - turned out to be a faulty wiring loom connected to the boost controller/solenoid/ and AFM etc .............. so when these things go wrong do not assume it will show the error light!

auzvectra
18th May 2007, 05:29 PM
we do get the issue here, i had it for a while, but it went away for some reason, maybe cause i disabled the t/c everytime i got in the car ;).
from what i am told it an earth connection on the left side of the batter in the harness ;).

bigg_vin
21st May 2007, 09:24 PM
Hey guys,

i was looking under the bonnet today... i have two short questions...

firstly, that black/red hose, going from the wastegate to the turbo... to i insert the boost controller between the wastegate, and the solonoid, or the solonoid and the turbo.... the solonoid is the little black box that has electrical connections as well as the hose going through it..... the hose is black ont eh outside, and red on the inside....

secondly, the boost gauge.... where is the best point ot take the reading from... i want to get a vac reading as well, so i know it needs to go after hte throttle body, is there an easily accessed vac line i can put a t-piece on?

cheers

auzvectra
22nd May 2007, 05:17 PM
1- between the solenoid and the wastgate, the other is the bleed off of the boost, and would decrease boost or do nothing if you put it there.

2- follow the BOV's actuation vac line back (the BOV is under the boost solenoid), there is a rubber section on this line near the drivers firewall (next to the brake fluid resevoir), it's about 4 inches long, cut it and put a 't' piece in there run the boost gauge from this, clamp all 3 sides of the 't' piece ;).