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ausratty
13th April 2015, 07:24 AM
Hey all, After a bit of searching i found a SRI to transplant all the goodness into the Combo. For those who didnt read my intro post, I picked up a Combo for work purpouses and on the way back from Sydney it went really well until I started it the next morning and it blew a cloud of smoke on revs'. So i straight away assumed valve stem seals. However I managed to score a rear ended SRI (very tidy) for $400 so I went for another drive to Syd this weekend to pick it up. I must say i'm over the driving (10 hour round trip) however what a score ! . Very nice interior etc, motor has 205ks on it however it has been really well looked after (full service history) .

So heres the plan
I currently have the head off the lovely 1.6 engine and have got it ready to put back together after reseating the valves and doing the valve stem seals. We'll put this back together so we can get it on the road asap.
Swap most of what we can currently into the combo - lights - seats - carpet - dash etc etc
Then i'll get the engine out of the SRI when i get the combo out of the shed so i have room ! Then i'll put it on the engine stand and re-ring/hone the 1.8 and redo water pump etc etc then do a full swap.
I;m hoping we can retro fit the power windows etc too.

Any way thats my story at the moment :)

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Heres the 1.6 pulled down atm
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Heres the SRI !

dutchy
13th April 2015, 02:41 PM
Looking good mate, that'll keep you busy :)

Raisin
13th April 2015, 02:49 PM
How's the drivers side door? All still straight and well aligned? Mine has had a nice dent in it since I bought the car that is driving me crazy and I keep meaning to buy a donor door for it. Hint Hint if you are looking to part out any of your leftovers.:wink5:

chris_r
13th April 2015, 05:40 PM
Power window swap shouldn't be too hard. Pretty much swap the door looms and switches over. You may have to find the door cards from a 5 door, as the 3 door ones are obviously longer, unless you're willing to modify your existing door cards to fit the window switches. Other thing is too, window regulators are different. You will need to source the Combo C regulators (for use with electric windows of course) from the UK. 3 or 5 door ones won't fit. Other than that you just need to put a couple of fuses in and it should work straight away.

ausratty
14th April 2015, 01:24 PM
Thanks Chris.
Raisin, The door looks very straight and tidy. What are you offering ? Also we'll be robbing the electrics out of it :)

Raisin
14th April 2015, 01:45 PM
Thanks Chris.
Raisin, The door looks very straight and tidy. What are you offering ? Also we'll be robbing the electrics out of it :)

That's fine, all I am interested in is the metal door itself. I'd swap over the door card and internals from mine. I'll send you a PM. :)

ausratty
17th April 2015, 08:14 AM
Hi guys, I hope theres a engine expert on here. We have just redone the head, water pump. Re seated all the valves done all the normal stuff. Checked head for warps etc. Everything appears to be fine.
So i've put the head back on fired it up. After the oil picked up we gave it a little bit to sit and get its shit together. Gave it a few quick rev's and we still have a smoke issue ! (FMD)
So I can only think of a couple of things.
Change the oil to a thicker oil. 20-50 maybe
Or there is some sort of pcv valve not working (im a bit of a old school home mechanic however i know these can cause this issue) Is there something like this on these motors ?

Any help would be appreciated fellas ! Cheers

DWS 92
17th April 2015, 09:30 AM
Did you do a compression test at all? Could be worn rings. Bores look okay with the head off?

ausratty
17th April 2015, 09:47 AM
Hey comp test was around 160 psi on each cylinder which i think spec is 180 ? which i spoke to a mach about and he said it should be still ok.
Bores still had nice hone marks in them no lips at all. Barely and carbon on the pistons . Definitely not glazed

sskustomz
17th April 2015, 04:09 PM
Pity you're not closer, I'd have had the SRI shell off you if you wanted to sell. FYI my z18 makes 230 psi compression dry


Sent from Stephen Hawkings wheelchair

DWS 92
17th April 2015, 05:58 PM
Hey comp test was around 160 psi on each cylinder which i think spec is 180 ? which i spoke to a mach about and he said it should be still ok.
Bores still had nice hone marks in them no lips at all. Barely and carbon on the pistons . Definitely not glazed

Yeah 160 is a bit low but that shouldn't be the problem. Is there noticeable vacuum when you pull the dipstick out or remove the oil cap with the engine running?

ausratty
17th April 2015, 08:51 PM
found the culprit ! After running it and making it blow plenty of smoke i took the exhaust manifold off. It appears cyl 2 has a cracked ring or similar. Looks like the 1.8 will be going in this weekend. Hope it goes fairly smoothly. Pain in the ass considering i thought it was valve stems and spent half the week (after work) redoing the head etc. Anyways no point whining ! :) will just get to throw the 1.8 in a bit sooner then i thought.

chris_r
17th April 2015, 09:15 PM
Shouldn't be too big a job really. Main things to remember are to swap the engine bay loom (the loom from the BCM to the fusebox, to the rest of the engine bay) and the ECU set (ECU, transponder ring around the ignition barrel and the transponder chips in the heads of the keys).

Whilst both gearboxes are interchangeable, I'd keep the F17CR box from the SRi attached to the Z18, the Z16SE will have a F13 box attached. The F17CR is the stronger of these two.

ausratty
18th April 2015, 08:23 AM
Hey Chris, Just wondering where do you actually pull the looms from ? Can i swap fuse boxes and everything. About to tackle it after lunch time.

chris_r
18th April 2015, 02:48 PM
Hey Chris, Just wondering where do you actually pull the looms from ? Can i swap fuse boxes and everything. About to tackle it after lunch time.

One loom comes out with the engine itself, this is the injection loom (ie connected to the injectors, cam and crank sensors, etc). The engine bay loom is the one that goes from the BCM down to the fusebox and then all throughout the engine bay. The BCM is located just north of the fusebox and is the black box looking thing heading into the cabin, underneath the cowling. Take the 6 or 7 T-20 Torx screws out of the BCM cover, remove the BCM (black rectangular box) by lifting the lever on the side of it. Then disconnect all the plugs in the BCM housing and there's one little clip on the BCM module socket itself that will separate the two halves of the connector. Took me a little bit to work out, but it's not too hard to do.

ausratty
22nd April 2015, 08:20 PM
Hi Chris im hoping you can help me out. You say to swap the engine loom over however the looms coming from the bcm (ive split it in half) however going back to the fuse box theres another loom that comes from the fusebox then wraps around under the wipers and into the firewall (i assume to the dash) so do we cut this loom i think 15 wires including a heavy positive wire. And swap them over ? we pulled the fuesbox appart however the only component you can seperate is the very front loom for the thermos and aircon. I hope this makes sense.
Thanks mate

chris_r
22nd April 2015, 09:16 PM
You should be able to remove all that part of the loom too. Disconnect it from the wipers, the engine start/charge plug if you haven't already and the sany ide indicators. This and the rest of engine bay loom should lift out as one. I don't believe there is any other part of the loom that enters the dashboard area, other than what is already passing through where the BCM is.

ausratty
22nd April 2015, 09:23 PM
nah it doesnt actually connect to the wipers it goes through firewall under the wipers. Its got us buggered it comes from the fuse box back up wraps around the back of where the bcm sits and goes through the firewall under the wipers.
So the aim at the end of the day is to transplant the whole fuse box etc too i assume if thats the case we may just have to splice into those other wires. Thanks for your help mate

chris_r
22nd April 2015, 09:40 PM
Have you removed the plastic cowling and the wiper motor assembly? Once you do this, you should see where this part of the loom runs. And which car are removing the loom from first?

ausratty
23rd April 2015, 06:08 AM
removing it from the sri first. I'll go and check again. cheers

ausratty
23rd April 2015, 07:04 AM
hey mate, i have no idea what we were looking at lastnight. Maybe too many cans for us !
you are right it looks like it wraps around the back of the engine bay and back out the other side. for blinker etc .. Thanks again

ausratty
23rd April 2015, 09:31 PM
Ok so we have everything swapped over. Swapped the key reader and key. However we have no fuel pressure. Will not having the abs plugged in do this. We've double checked all the connections etc. Cheers

chris_r
24th April 2015, 07:53 AM
Ok so we have everything swapped over. Swapped the key reader and key. However we have no fuel pressure. Will not having the abs plugged in do this. We've double checked all the connections etc. Cheers
Which BCM did you use?

ausratty
24th April 2015, 07:58 AM
The one from the sri. I assume by bcm your talking about the cartridge ecu plugin ? in the back right of the engine bay where it all splits appart ?

chris_r
24th April 2015, 08:06 AM
The one from the sri. I assume by bcm your talking about the cartridge ecu plugin ? in the back right of the engine bay where it all splits appart ?
Okay, try the Combo BCM. The lack of ABS may have something to do with it, as this model has an earlier variant of the CANBUS protocol and it runs through the ABS system too.

chris_r
24th April 2015, 08:07 AM
And yes, the one under the black plastic cover at the back of the engine bay.

ausratty
24th April 2015, 08:08 AM
The other bcm wouldnt support the new motor would it ? or does it not matter

ausratty
24th April 2015, 08:24 AM
Ok so we swapped it back over - no fuel still - changed the reader and back to the other key - still no fuel.

chris_r
24th April 2015, 08:26 AM
Have you run a scan tool on it yet?

ausratty
24th April 2015, 08:51 AM
just about to try that. dont have the opcom one though :(

ausratty
24th April 2015, 12:08 PM
Well it appears it wont start without the abs hooked up ! IT GOES !
Thanks again for all your help mate.

chris_r
24th April 2015, 12:22 PM
No problems. Nice work and I hope you enjoy the extra power over the old Z16.

ausratty
4th May 2015, 01:04 PM
Ok so back to a couple of issues, If anyone has any clues on these.
Sometimes first thing in the morning it wont start at all. Just winds over, leave it for 15 minutes come back fires up perfectly. Done this around 5 times now. Strange shit !
Next one is we cannot get the aircon to work, we've exhausted all of our options except maybe changing the dash wiring loom ?
Thanks again for the help guys.

adam_92
4th May 2015, 01:10 PM
Any fault codes? Flashing lights when you try cranking the car?

ausratty
4th May 2015, 01:17 PM
nothing more then normal, just got the opcom i'll see if it sheds some light

dutchy
4th May 2015, 01:53 PM
Sometimes first thing in the morning it wont start at all. Just winds over, leave it for 15 minutes come back fires up perfectly. Done this around 5 times now. Strange shit !


Thats sensor related. When my cam sensor played up, it did exactly the same.

DWS 92
4th May 2015, 03:43 PM
Crankshaft sensor will be the most likely for long crank issue.

You didn't let any AC gas escape by any chance? Clutch engaging when AC turned on?

ausratty
4th May 2015, 04:58 PM
nah clutch not engaging, took it and got it as much gas as my machanic could put in it without it starting. So deffinately electrical i recon

DWS 92
4th May 2015, 05:02 PM
Did you use the compressor from the SRI? Common for the thermal fuse in the clutch to fail on the 1.8.

ausratty
4th May 2015, 06:04 PM
nah same one as on the combo. left it all in tact.

Now we have another problem. We plugged in the opcom unit, turned off the abs as we thought this was correct. However now the car wont start at all with abs enabled or disabled - wont work plugged in or unplugged. Anyone have any ideas on this one ?

chris_r
4th May 2015, 08:15 PM
You should be using the Combo's BCM and not the SRi one. Problem I found was with my SRi and the Z20LET, if I turned off anything in the BCM, it cracked the sh1ts and spat out an error code in the BCM. I left everything as it was and it wasn't an issue.

Thing with the ABS+TC enabled BCM in the SRi, it has two sets of CAN wires going to it. One set is present in models without TC, but those with TC have two sets. If this second set isn't connected, nothing works properly, including your tacho and speedo.

ausratty
4th May 2015, 08:41 PM
Righto ill try that. We couldn't get it to work at all before. I didn't think that bcm would work as its a different motor.

chris_r
4th May 2015, 09:40 PM
Righto ill try that. We couldn't get it to work at all before. I didn't think that bcm would work as its a different motor.

I can't see why it shouldn't work. I mean, I'm using a Corsa/Barina BCM with an Astra Turbo ECU (Z20LET engine was never at any point a factory option in the Corsa, although some would argue it should have been) and it works fine.