TX Autosports...

[jamesfrancis]

So I am new to all this tuning business but over the last few months of watching and researching I think I am finally getting to grips with some of it ;)

The big boys in Opel / Vauxhall tuning seem to be Courteney's and Regal, however I have noticed a few other companies who specialise in this as well...

Which brings me onto TX Autosports... They seem to be very reasonably priced, a lot cheaper than some of the other companies for most things... Question is, are they any good?

Be nice, I am a n00b :D

[glider]

Some of their things are good, have heard bad things about one or two of their items in the past

[lonewolf1983]

pretty cheap, quality is kind of reflected in that.
I decided against their FMIC kit due to potential issues with the fan setup, spent the couple of hundred extra on a courtenay one...

Probably grab one of their airbox kits though as its a relatively simple item.

[Hoss]

I have sourced the vast majority of my parts from Courtenay Sport. They are a quality outfit and provide excellent advice - talk to Mark Watts. I've used Regal once and had an unhappy experience. That said, others on here use Regal and may wish to comment.

[jamesfrancis]

pretty cheap, quality is kind of reflected in that.

Ha ha yep suppose that's the golden rule, if you wanna buy something buy it right the first time so you don't end up buying it AGAIN!!! :D

[boorny88]

Im thinkkng of getting there cdti airbox kit cheap and same as everyone elses

[jamesfrancis]

Im thinkkng of getting there cdti airbox kit cheap and same as everyone elses

So I presume it would be similar to the other cdti kits that are going around just way cheaper right? Do you know anybody that has one fitted?

[kabel]

Also try Forge Motorsport for a FMIC kit.

[jamesfrancis]

I just found this whilst having a browse on VXRonline...

Roose Motorsport CDTi airbox conversion kit... (http://roosemotorsport.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3_111_112&products_id=310)

Would this have the 80mm outlet or 70mm? Doesn't give much info on the page (and hopefully somebody on here is familiar with them or psychic he he ;))

[boorny88]

So I presume it would be similar to the other cdti kits that are going around just way cheaper right? Do you know anybody that has one fitted?

Yeah chrisn89 has one and says its pritty gd

[boorny88]

It be 70 and 80 mm mate so u cn use either go on txautosport.co.uk

[jamesfrancis]

Had another look into that Roose Motorsport airbox and it appears that it is an 80mm outlet... I will need to get hold of an 80mm AFM to get everything fitted tho right? EDS IPF unit will be on its way next week hopefully so don't have to worry about ECU remap to run everything properly :D

[Hoss]

Had another look into that Roose Motorsport airbox and it appears that it is an 80mm outlet... I will need to get hold of an 80mm AFM to get everything fitted tho right? EDS IPF unit will be on its way next week hopefully so don't have to worry about ECU remap to run everything properly :D

I'd give Roose a call to confirm the hose size before committing to buy. In using an 80mm AFM, EDS assume you will also have fitted a VXR (Z20LEH) turbo, injectors, a larger intercooler and probably a sport exhaust. The most powerful map that comes with your initial EDS IPF purchase for the SRi-T (Z20LER) is as follows:

Phase 3: 300PS 450NM LEH-TURBO-INJ-LMM-INTERCOOLER.

LMM is an abbreviation for Luftmassenmesser (German for AFM). As far as I know, it is the only map of those that are included with your IPF purchase that copes with the 80mm AFM because it changes the voltage scale for that AFM. The 70mm AFM uses a different scale.

Before getting into serious power upgrades, I'd concentrate on improving the handling of your car. That is, a Whiteline RARB, Whiteline adjustable front caster and camber bushes, Eibach Pro or DAPr springs and Whiteline rear camber/toe plates. With these mods fitted the car will handle much better and will be more fun to drive.

[jamesfrancis]

I'd give Roose a call to confirm the hose size before committing to buy. In using an 80mm AFM, EDS assume you will also have fitted a VXR (Z20LEH) turbo, injectors, a larger intercooler and probably a sport exhaust. The most powerful map that comes with your initial EDS IPF purchase for the SRi-T (Z20LER) is as follows:

Phase 3: 300PS 450NM LEH-TURBO-INJ-LMM-INTERCOOLER.

LMM is an abbreviation for Luftmassenmesser (German for AFM). As far as I know, it is the only map of those that are included with your IPF purchase that copes with the 80mm AFM because it changes the voltage scale for that AFM. The 70mm AFM uses a different scale.

Before getting into serious power upgrades, I'd concentrate on improving the handling of your car. That is, a Whiteline RARB, Whiteline adjustable front caster and camber bushes, Eibach Pro or DAPr springs and Whiteline rear camber/toe plates. With these mods fitted the car will handle much better and will be more fun to drive.

Yeah sorting the handling out is my next priority however I do fancy one of the cdti airbox kits in the near future as well... So am I correct in saying having the 80mm outlet is pretty much useless until the car is up to stage 3 to accomodate the different voltage for the AFM? If so would it b best to grab the 70mm outlet one and then mod it if or when I get to stage 3?

Thanks for the advice mate :D

[dutchy]

Yeah sorting the handling out is my next priority however I do fancy one of the cdti airbox kits in the near future as well... So am I correct in saying having the 80mm outlet is pretty much useless until the car is up to stage 3 to accomodate the different voltage for the AFM? If so would it b best to grab the 70mm outlet one and then mod it if or when I get to stage 3?

Thanks for the advice mate :D


and you might want to start saving for a new clutch too.

[jamesfrancis]

and you might want to start saving for a new clutch too.

And LSD so I have been told ha ha! Not a cheap interest really is it lol :p

[Hoss]

Yeah sorting the handling out is my next priority however I do fancy one of the cdti airbox kits in the near future as well... So am I correct in saying having the 80mm outlet is pretty much useless until the car is up to stage 3 to accomodate the different voltage for the AFM? If so would it b best to grab the 70mm outlet one and then mod it if or when I get to stage 3?

Thanks for the advice mate :D

Your assumption is correct regarding the 80mm AFM. Before buying a CDTi box I'd wait until you get your EDS IPF and have a look at the available maps. The idea is that the car's hardware needs to align with the hardware requirement of the maps, eg an intercooler. Once you have a look at the maps you could talk over any issues or necessary upgrades with the your IPF seller.

Dutchy makes a good point about the clutch. The clutch in the Z20LER isn't as robust as the clutch in the VXR, so it may start to slip. However, another Z20LER owner on here is running an EDS Stage 2 map and I haven't read that they are having any clutch problems - I'm thinking Milesy. That said, my clutch started to slip so I upgraded.

[jamesfrancis]

Your assumption is correct regarding the 80mm AFM. Before buying a CDTi box I'd wait until you get your EDS IPF and have a look at the available maps. The idea is that the car's hardware needs to align with the hardware requirement of the maps, eg an intercooler. Once you have a look at the maps you could talk over any issues or necessary upgrades with the your IPF seller.

Dutchy makes a good point about the clutch. The clutch in the Z20LER isn't as robust as the clutch in the VXR, so it may start to slip. However, another Z20LER owner on here is running an EDS Stage 2 map and I haven't read that they are having any clutch problems - I'm thinking Milesy. That said, my clutch started to slip so I upgraded.

Cheers for the info mate :D

Just paid the balance on my IPF unit a few minutes ago, so hopefully it will be shipped tomorrow and then a week or so until it arrives and I can check out the maps! However I may need your (and everybody else's!) help to work out what all the maps are ha ha ;)

But for now I will look into a handling package! I checked out the Whiteline website and found all the bits you guys suggested, so will look into ordering them over the next few weeks :D

[kabel]

Your assumption is correct regarding the 80mm AFM. Before buying a CDTi box I'd wait until you get your EDS IPF and have a look at the available maps. The idea is that the car's hardware needs to align with the hardware requirement of the maps, eg an intercooler. Once you have a look at the maps you could talk over any issues or necessary upgrades with the your IPF seller.

Dutchy makes a good point about the clutch. The clutch in the Z20LER isn't as robust as the clutch in the VXR, so it may start to slip. However, another Z20LER owner on here is running an EDS Stage 2 map and I haven't read that they are having any clutch problems - I'm thinking Milesy. That said, my clutch started to slip so I upgraded.

I think Mania may be running the same EDS Stage II software on his SriT.
Although he does have an LSD.
But he also has a Whiteline RARB and castor/camber kit and a set of OEM VXR springs I sold him.

He is in Perth so you may be able to check with him James.

[jamesfrancis]

I think Mania may be running the same EDS Stage II software on his SriT.
Although he does have an LSD.
But he also has a Whiteline RARB and castor/camber kit and a set of OEM VXR springs I sold him.

He is in Perth so you may be able to check with him James.

Thanks Kabel will send him a PM and pick his brains ha ha ;)

You guys are all so helpful, I wouldn't have a clue if it was not for all your info so many thanks!

[UNEEQ]

If the kit takes an 80mm MAF, this isn't so much of a train smash as some others would make out. Mark (from Courtenay's) came up with a ripper of an idea. Place a section of 70mm hose over your existing 70mm MAF just to the edge of the plastic, and sleeve that into the 80mm kit hose, then clamp. This will allow you to have the kit prepared for the 80mm upgrade when you are ready, but make use of the CDTi Air Box in the now.

That said, I agree with what everyone else has mentioned. Handling and Clutch need to be the focus now. As with myself, I have the LSD, so that's part of handling done, but I need a RARB, castor/camber kits and an upgraded clutch, so I'll be doing the flywheel at the same time since the benefits in getting all the gearbox out of the way at the same time are significant (cost saving wise), then I can focus on the next stages.

I also have the boost controller, so I can ensure stage 1 gives me a decent amount of boost, that will hopfully hold (will probably still only use 1bar) to the end of the rev-range. When you flash without a controller, you may only find that it's set to 10PSI, for example, as some people may not want to run their maps right at the very leading edge of the acceptable perameters.

[Hoss]

But for now I will look into a handling package! I checked out the Whiteline website and found all the bits you guys suggested, so will look into ordering them over the next few weeks :D

Talk to Greg (GSLRallysport - see his link under Forum sponsor) as he can supply Whiteline components. He is most helpful.

[dutchy]

And LSD so I have been told ha ha! Not a cheap interest really is it lol :p

My clutch gave up right after the first remap. Put a Sachs one in and never had any problems since.

[lonewolf1983]

mine went whilst testing stage II on the dyno, its hit and miss when they start getting old how long they will hold.

[jamesfrancis]

If the kit takes an 80mm MAF, this isn't so much of a train smash as some others would make out. Mark (from Courtenay's) came up with a ripper of an idea. Place a section of 70mm hose over your existing 70mm MAF just to the edge of the plastic, and sleeve that into the 80mm kit hose, then clamp. This will allow you to have the kit prepared for the 80mm upgrade when you are ready, but make use of the CDTi Air Box in the now.

Sounds like a pretty good idea to me!!! Will look into it more once my chassis is sorted :D


My clutch gave up right after the first remap. Put a Sachs one in and never had any problems since.


mine went whilst testing stage II on the dyno, its hit and miss when they start getting old how long they will hold.

My car is a 2008 so am I right in thinking I will get a while out of my clutch before it needs doing? I am usually a very relaxed driver (however I get easily provoked by shitty rice burners and have to show them who is boss :D) so don't really hammer it very often. Plan on doing the LSD / clutch / flywheel once funds permit!