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Lightning07
5th October 2010, 10:54 PM
Hi all,
Late last week I took my astra to K-mart auto center (Southland) for its 30k/12 month service. I went there instead of the Holden because I would be saving close to $100 (I rang up for a quote.) My parents have gone there in the past and said to me they do a great job. No worries. I handed over the keys in the morning and I had a few hours to kill so I went shopping. Haha. Anyways, after an hour and a half or so I get a call from one of the mechanics to tell me that a few extra things needed to be done. Great, I was thinking. I was already thinking the $375 was enough but then he told me, first, the wheels need to be rotated, front to rear, rear to front and balance. That would be another $60. That’s ok, needs to be done, better grip, economy and so forth, so I went with it. Secondly he said the injectors were quite clogged and needed to be taken out and cleaned and to have this done wouldn’t be cheap, around $150 or so. To be honest I was going to let this one slip and have it done the next time round, but the guy on the other end of the phone said sooner the better. Better fuel economy can be achieved depending on the severity or something he said. I thought for a second and since I hadn’t been getting that great economy (I blamed the traffic for it :) ), I said yes for that too. So after ending the call with the guy I thought whether it was really necessary or he just wanted some extra cash. Hell with it, its only money :P.
When I went to pick it up there was some extra time, I came early since I was bored of looking around southland. There was nearly half an hour or so left and so I spoke to the guy who rang me. He talked a little more about the injector clean but what really got me was he said that soon I will need to be replacing the brake pads and disc rotors. The rotors wear out quickly and form a concave shape and shouldn’t be machined down. I was quite puzzled at this since to my knowledge I thought they lasted a long time. The reasons for needing the swap were because they (astras) are fitted with soft compound rotors for extra stopping power. This is done because they’re European cars which drive on the autobahn and need the extra stopping power. To have this done would be close to $1000 and can only be fitted with genuine GM parts.
After that discussion I asked about what would be required if I was to fit some lowered springs. I said I would probably fit Eibach pro-kit, a 30mm drop. He said just an alignment and something. Was going to fit them myself, along with the help of a mate. He said though, in doing that you will have a different camber of the wheels and will affect tire wear. Also there were no camber kits available he said. I wasn’t sure about this and I hadn’t read anything here about it which made me wonder if he was just trying to persuade me out of it.
So if you’re still with me the questions I have for you are as follows:
· Is the camber changed with lowering the car and can it be fitted with a camber kit to bring it back?
· It true about the brake rotors needing replacing? If so would it be better and possibly cheaper to upgrade to some more after market type?
· Is it easy to clean to injectors yourself if I wanted to do it more often? Risky? Cost effective? I wasn’t sure is he said how often it needed to be done.
So what are your thoughts on this? What are my options here? Thank you very much all in advance.
(Well done too if you read all of it ;) )

CNBLU
6th October 2010, 12:14 AM
I'd be weary of an 'injector clean' they udually put some $10 treatmant in and charge you $$$ for it. How does he know your injectors need cleaning?

2nd'ly $1000 on pads and rotors? He must be having a laugh! Give gslrallysport a pm and get some pricing

Shay
6th October 2010, 12:45 AM
Wow, wouldnt go back myself...

If a car with 30,000kms need an injector clean id be taking it to holden for warranty work...
But yes $150 is reasonable for the injector clean tho IF they are doing a proper sonic clean not just a flush through with an additive.
Like Gav, id like to know how he knew the injectors needed cleaning, its a hard thing to diagnose, and if fuel economy is the only symptom there are heaps of other things youd replace before cleaning the injectors. My car has done over 150K kms and not had a clean, and when put on the dyno a couple of weeks ago showed it had a perfect Air Fuel Ratio.

Again, brake rotors at 30K kms seems ridiculous, more like 130K kms...
Also there are many aftermarket setups and upgrades you can get to suit...
At most expensive for a std size replacement i think youd be looking at 200 a rotor and that would be a high quality slotted rotor. Most for pads 250 for all round, and thats a REALLY expensive set...

RE: Lowering, front camber will change. Not by much though. Rear Camber shouldnt as its torsion beam rear suspension.
Id recommend doing it yourself, not worth the 150 bux or so someone would charge you to fit them.
And yes, camber adjustment kits are available, eibach do them.

CNBLU
6th October 2010, 01:00 AM
+1 wouldnt go back.

Look up MAP AUTOMOTIVE, they around the corner and have done work on a tonne of astras.

metry
6th October 2010, 08:44 AM
isnt an injector clean the standard rip off procedure. every dealer does it when you drop your car off for a service

Lightning07
6th October 2010, 09:14 AM
Thanks for the reply. Probably wont go back in future. Just had another look at the invoice and under the fuel injecter service it also says: 'solvent clean fuel rail, fuel injectors and combustion area'. I had a feeling it was mostly likely a ploy for cash. Although thye may have really needed a clean. Oh well. Also with the brakes, didn't sound right when he said it. It was going to be like the next service for the rotors, but i'll probs get some other ones fitted when the time comes. Some nice slotted or something.

With lowering the car, how much will the camber be changed? Really worth getting a kit for it?

JohnBu
6th October 2010, 10:16 AM
I wouldn't worry about the brakes..

The car will tell you when the brake pads need replacing.

It's up to you if you wish to replace the rotors at the same time the brake pads.

Generally, I change pads twice for every rotor. I know you're suppose to change rotors when you change pads, but I see it as a waste of money if your rotors aren't that worn or scored/uneven.

buy your pads and rotors from Greg at gslrallysport ... he will look after you. You don't have to use original GM pads or rotors.

Next time, don't take your car to K-mart for servicing.

JohnBu
6th October 2010, 10:19 AM
Don't worry about slotted rotors.. they don't do anything for braking apart from looking good.

HoldenAstra
6th October 2010, 11:58 AM
Don't worry about slotted rotors.. they don't do anything for braking apart from looking good.

Thanks for that advice!
What rotors do you recommend? I was thinking about DBA, normal one is 85 each, slotted one is 170 each. Do they have same performance? Is the normal DBA one better than GM factory one?

Shay
6th October 2010, 12:08 PM
Don't worry about slotted rotors.. they don't do anything for braking apart from looking good.

They Do make a large difference John, especially under wet weather or hard braking conditions.

toddals
6th October 2010, 01:57 PM
Like others have said I would recommend to avoid Kmart Auto. From experience I know they rip people off. My gf took her car (echo) to them for a regular service before her rego was due. I'd just changed brake pads and a tail light bulb for her. Long story short they made a huge list of stuff that they "fixed" and the bill came to about $780. Worst part was they had new brake pads, tail light bulb and two new tyres put on when I knew for certain she didnt need them.

Leason learned I guess. I always take her car to get done now.

JohnBu
6th October 2010, 02:07 PM
They Do make a large difference John, especially under wet weather or hard braking conditions.

hmm maybe in theory, but when wet, I think your tyres would lose grip first.... and when it's wet, slow down.. lol

Slotted may have some benefits in repeated high temp braking..

anyway Shay, we'll agree to disagree :)

I've got slotted ones but wouldn't pay for them again..

You would be better off spending the $170 you saved on non-slotted to fund better brake pads and/or tyres.

PS, I'm talking about the slotted ones they cut with an saw or whatever, not the proper grooved ones you see on Porsches.

delemonte
6th October 2010, 02:12 PM
This is a bit of a generalisation, but I would avoid all "xxxxx Tyre + Auto" places... I'm sure there are some good ones, but I wouldn't go there unless I knew them well.

delemonte
6th October 2010, 02:14 PM
They Do make a large difference John, especially under wet weather or hard braking conditions.
Interesting that you say so in wet weather... On what do you base this? (I'm not arguing! I'm just curious about the logic behind it ;))
I would have thought it less likely that you'd get brake fade when driving in wet conditions...

Shay
6th October 2010, 02:30 PM
Interesting that you say so in wet weather... On what do you base this? (I'm not arguing! I'm just curious about the logic behind it ;))
I would have thought it less likely that you'd get brake fade when driving in wet conditions...

They help in wet weather, in that in really wet conditions if you get a lot of water on the disk then go to brake some water get trapped between the pad and the disc, creating a near frictionless interface. so you're brakes pratically dont work. The Slots take this water out from between the rotor and pads. This is the same concept slotted brakes are designed for on performance cars to, except they are more worried about small bit of air between rotor and pad, which under high temps of braking expands reducing breaking pressure, the slots once again allow a relief of this trapped air and in effect create a vacuum between rotor and pad...

I experienced this it the big storm we had in april, scary as fk, was in my Pajero with heaps of meat left on the pads and discs.

Brake fade is usually caused by the pads being to hot, this is not really helped at all with slots and is only really helped by pushing more cool air throught the venting veins and/or a higher temp compound pad.

hope thats an understandable explanation.

Lightning07
6th October 2010, 09:55 PM
will be avoiding them now. when it comes time for its next service I'll try another place. Might try map auto like cnblu said. Also how do you know how much camber needs to be done? Additionally when the time comes to changing rotors and pads i'll be sure to give gls a pm on whats best, :)

delemonte
7th October 2010, 03:09 PM
They help in wet weather, in that in really wet conditions if you get a lot of water on the disk then go to brake some water get trapped between the pad and the disc, creating a near frictionless interface. so you're brakes pratically dont work. The Slots take this water out from between the rotor and pads. This is the same concept slotted brakes are designed for on performance cars to, except they are more worried about small bit of air between rotor and pad, which under high temps of braking expands reducing breaking pressure, the slots once again allow a relief of this trapped air and in effect create a vacuum between rotor and pad...

I experienced this it the big storm we had in april, scary as fk, was in my Pajero with heaps of meat left on the pads and discs.

Brake fade is usually caused by the pads being to hot, this is not really helped at all with slots and is only really helped by pushing more cool air throught the venting veins and/or a higher temp compound pad.

hope thats an understandable explanation.

Well written and easy to understand. Thanks Shay ;)