Xc sri....

[Theo]

Team,
I'm looking at getting back into an Barina - XC SRi to be exact...can any of you give me an info that I need to be aware off when checking them out.

or should I go for the SXi instead - yes I know less power!!!

thanks

[GreyRex]

Team,
I'm looking at getting back into an Barina - XC SRi to be exact...can any of you give me an info that I need to be aware off when checking them out.

or should I go for the SXi instead - yes I know less power!!!

thanks

Considering how cheap they are now... you would be crazy not to get the SRi

Traction Control (2001-2004), ABS, sports suspension, sports seats, alloy look pedals...

2004 update onwards lost Traction Control and gained MP3 stereo from 2005 i think

From 2001 to around 2002 it had Active Head Restraints too


Only problem I had were squeaking brakes when reversing, which was a common fault

[Taffy]

Personally I'd try and get a facelift version as they have the colour code and no traction control,

- Careful getting one which is approaching 60,000 or 120,000kms as this is when the big service (timing belt etc) is due. The service is pretty expensive...I paid $600 and that was at a small garage.

- As above, make sure timing belt has definitely been changed

- Pay attention to the gear changes as the linkage will eventually go - I sold mine with a brand new linkage and everyone commented on the difference it made.

- Check for the error code light when ignition is turned on (then if possible, do the 'pedal trick' to get any codes stored on it for some clues)

- Listen out for rattles from the front when driving as the lower control arm bushes also tend to go pretty early.

- The foam inside the driver's seat tends to wear down on the right hand side and the metal 'bar of death' will start protroding (ie. Immense pain if you sit on it by accident !)...Just a little thing that you can use to get the price down a bit.

I think they are the main things to look for, other than the usual things.

[GreyRex]

Personally I'd try and get a facelift version as they have the colour code and no traction control,



+1

And better looking headlights too

[Theo]

Personally I'd try and get a facelift version as they have the colour code and no traction control,

- Check for the error code light when ignition is turned on (then if possible, do the 'pedal trick' to get any codes stored on it for some clues).

'Pedal trick' - Please explain!!!!

[Taffy]

OK here goes (largely reworded from various posts on various forums)

You'll need a pen and paper and a friend to keep count for you also helps

Press the brake and throttle fully down to the floor, then turn the key until the dashboard lights all come on...

...Wait 2 seconds - keeping the pedals pressed down...

The service light on the dash will start flashing

- The error codes are all four digit numbers however it will break for a second or two inbetween each digit
- If more than one code is registered then it will break and go on to the following code
- If only one code is registered then it keeps repeating the same one
- Zero is equal to 10 flashes

For example, P0110
The light will flash ten times, (2sec break) then once, (2sec break) once again (2 sec break) then ten

if you have more than one code it will stop for a 2 second break, then give the next code

If no codes are registered then it will just flash continuously

Also note that if you get some codes, it doesn't necessarily mean that the error is still present as I think they stay there until the battery is disconnected or the codes wiped. (I corrected the issues with my car but the codes remained).

It's useful cos if the codes haven't been wiped then you can get some good clues about the history (especially if the owner says that nothing has ever gone wrong !!!)

To find out what a particular error means just have a search on Opel Aus or Corsa-c.co.uk.

Oh and also...if there are no codes stored, then the service light will go out once the ignition has been turned on, after a couple of seconds. If it stays illuminated then the above trick is needed. Hope this helps you find a good one !

[PrincessPeachey]

Definitely go for the SRi over the SXi!

If you go for a pre-facelift (01-04.5), go for one BUILT during or after 2002. These ones came with electric windows and mirrors as standard. I missed out.
Ones from 03 on come with the nice 5 spoke 16s instead of the 7 spoke 15s.

Facelifts get better headlights as mentioned (twin projector) and they also come with a better front and rear bumper. Easier to change the badges on the facelift front bumper, plus you can get an Irmscher grille for it easily enough. Also the facelifts got a different stereo, the CD30 which is an MP3 capable unit, but if you want to change it out I'm led to believe it's a bit more difficult??? The pre-facelifts get a Blaupunkt 2020 which I didn't mind but we swapped it anyway.

With the traction control - you can actually turn this off on the pre-facelifts, but you also lose your ABS. If anything my braking IMPROVED once I disabled the traction control. But the t/c on the pre-facelifts is a right pain, light starts flashing when you change into second, and its almost constantly on in the wet..

Check to see if they've replaced the gear linkage, the original one is made of plastic and can easily break, you can get a replacement metal one pretty easily.

Around 150-160 thousand kays the O2 sensors and the knock sensor start to go. And my crankshaft sensor is on its way out so I'm replacing that while I can.

The facelifted SRis ECUs are CANBUS, and I've heard mixed reports of the pedal test actually working on these, it doesn't work on some and it does on others. But definitely invest in an opcom, definitely worth the $60 we paid for it.

[Taffy]

Definitely go for the SRi over the SXi!

If you go for a pre-facelift (01-04.5), go for one BUILT during or after 2002. These ones came with electric windows and mirrors as standard. I missed out.
Ones from 03 on come with the nice 5 spoke 16s instead of the 7 spoke 15s.

Facelifts get better headlights as mentioned (twin projector) and they also come with a better front and rear bumper. Easier to change the badges on the facelift front bumper, plus you can get an Irmscher grille for it easily enough. Also the facelifts got a different stereo, the CD30 which is an MP3 capable unit, but if you want to change it out I'm led to believe it's a bit more difficult??? The pre-facelifts get a Blaupunkt 2020 which I didn't mind but we swapped it anyway.

With the traction control - you can actually turn this off on the pre-facelifts, but you also lose your ABS. If anything my braking IMPROVED once I disabled the traction control. But the t/c on the pre-facelifts is a right pain, light starts flashing when you change into second, and its almost constantly on in the wet..

Check to see if they've replaced the gear linkage, the original one is made of plastic and can easily break, you can get a replacement metal one pretty easily.

Around 150-160 thousand kays the O2 sensors and the knock sensor start to go. And my crankshaft sensor is on its way out so I'm replacing that while I can.

The facelifted SRis ECUs are CANBUS, and I've heard mixed reports of the pedal test actually working on these, it doesn't work on some and it does on others. But definitely invest in an opcom, definitely worth the $60 we paid for it.

Maybe Canbus came in for the 2005 models? Mine was 04.5 facelift and it had the old 2020 stereo (non MP3) hmmmm

[PrincessPeachey]

Maybe Canbus came in for the 2005 models? Mine was 04.5 facelift and it had the old 2020 stereo (non MP3) hmmmm

I'm not sure, that might be the case? I get confused, there's so many different variations between the SRis, there's like a variant for every year but its not that clear cut unfortunately..

[Theo]

I'm actually looking at this one:-

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=8999385&keywords=sri&tsrc=allcarhome&__Ntk=CarAll&__Nne=15&__Dx=mode%20matchany&__D=sri&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=126B43861EEA&__N=1216%201247%204294965857%204294965773%20901&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_PriceSort_D ecimal%7c1%7c%7cpCar_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cpCar_Mod el_String%7c0&__Qpb=true&__Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Cr=1&__Ntt=sri&trecs=2

I'm looking at selling/trading in my VY Commodore for it.

[xplosv57]

I'm actually looking at this one:-

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=8999385&keywords=sri&tsrc=allcarhome&__Ntk=CarAll&__Nne=15&__Dx=mode%20matchany&__D=sri&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=126B43861EEA&__N=1216%201247%204294965857%204294965773%20901&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_PriceSort_D ecimal%7c1%7c%7cpCar_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cpCar_Mod el_String%7c0&__Qpb=true&__Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Cr=1&__Ntt=sri&trecs=2

I'm looking at selling/trading in my VY Commodore for it.

For that price youre scraping Astra SRi-T territory...

[PrincessPeachey]

Been past that a few times and wanted to have a look at it but just haven't had the time. If you're actually in Adelaide (ie, you're not buying from interstate), that SRi is at a yard on North East Rd in Holden Hill, just near Officeworks/Autobarn.

As mentioned, that is kinda SRi-T terrority, there's a black TS SRi-T in a car yard on McIntyre Rd just before you get to Peter Kittles (between Bridge & Main North). That's been sitting there for a while too.

[GreyRex]

Mine was 04.5 facelift and it had the old 2020 stereo (non MP3) hmmmm

I was exact same

[Theo]

Been past that a few times and wanted to have a look at it but just haven't had the time. If you're actually in Adelaide (ie, you're buying from interstate), that SRi is at a yard on North East Rd in Holden Hill, just near Officeworks/Autobarn.

As mentioned, that is kinda SRi-T terrority, there's a black TS SRi-T in a car yard on McIntyre Rd just before you get to Peter Kittles (between Bridge & Main North). That's been sitting there for a while too.

Yeah in Radelaide...I live in Campbelltown, so I around the corner from Holden Hill and not that far from Peter Kittles.
Thanks for the heads up.

the only problem going Astra SRi-T is that the Km's are higher...little concern about that.

[auzvectra]

Maybe Canbus came in for the 2005 models? Mine was 04.5 facelift and it had the old 2020 stereo (non MP3) hmmmm

it was said earlier but 04 has canbus, but the stereo wasnt changed till 05 :).

and i prefer the prefacelift body kit, more aggresive :).
prefacelift is also easier to get more out of ;).

[lithium]

Taffy's made a good list of things to look for. apart from the normal things to check for when buying a car, i'll add

- look for red coolant weeping from the thermostat housing. it's not a big deal at all to fix but it's pretty common.
- if the steering pulls to one side at low speeds, it's not a wheel alignment issue and could possibly be an electric power steering problem (as was the case with mine). expensive to fix, fortunately i think it's a very rare failure.

other than that, anything else wrong with it should be pretty obvious (ie. a check engine light, and/or the engine sounding lumpy).

definitely go for the SRi over the XC if you are a keen driver! :)

also you may be able to get a better price than that at private sale - if you are game enough not to buy from a dealer.

[lithium]

With the traction control - you can actually turn this off on the pre-facelifts, but you also lose your ABS. If anything my braking IMPROVED once I disabled the traction control. But the t/c on the pre-facelifts is a right pain, light starts flashing when you change into second, and its almost constantly on in the wet..


how do you turn off the T/C mate?

T/C on while changing to second...hmmm. perhaps just better tyres are in order? the T/C almost never activates on my car, including full throttle in first in the wet :)

[nuggz]

u can turn traction control off with opcom

there a few different settings for it, i disabled one on pauly's and its given him alot more give

[PrincessPeachey]

We tried to turn the t/c off with the opcom, thing just took forever so we gave up.

Remove fuse 50, this is your t/c & abs fuse. These lights will be on your dash until you put the fuse back in, and also throw up a few fault codes naturally.

In regards to the t/c light coming on into second, I don't think it's my tyres, I had a really good set on the front before on my 16"s and they still did it.. And on my 15"s. Maybe it's just the way I drive the thing??? IDK. But it definitely has trouble keeping traction in the wet if you're taking off, like to cross a road or turn right, etc, so maybe... It's all too difficult!!

[PrincessPeachey]

Yeah in Radelaide...I live in Campbelltown, so I around the corner from Holden Hill and not that far from Peter Kittles.
Thanks for the heads up.

the only problem going Astra SRi-T is that the Km's are higher...little concern about that.

Ahh, you're not far from me either, I'm near Modbury.. if you get an SRi we'll have to have a mini-meet!!

[lithium]

ah cool, thanks guys. i'll keep fuse 50 in mind but i'm pretty happy to leave T/C on in mine as it usually doesn't bother me. starting to get old perhaps :lol:

princesspeachy yeah, if i floor it in the wet while doing a sharp turn there's wheel-spin. it's a FWD thing, the best tyres in the world won't help you much there! (and RWD will oversteer you into a pole :) ) however in a straight line T/C basically never goes on - could have something to do with the 17s and Dunlop Sportmaxx tyres :yikes:

edit: oh i should add, the rear swaybar helps a lot in putting down power in corners as it keeps both front wheels evenly weighted and touching the ground. might be something that you could try :)

[PrincessPeachey]

ah cool, thanks guys. i'll keep fuse 50 in mind but i'm pretty happy to leave T/C on in mine as it usually doesn't bother me. starting to get old perhaps :lol:

princesspeachy yeah, if i floor it in the wet while doing a sharp turn there's wheel-spin. it's a FWD thing, the best tyres in the world won't help you much there! (and RWD will oversteer you into a pole :) ) however in a straight line T/C basically never goes on - could have something to do with the 17s and Dunlop Sportmaxx tyres :yikes:

edit: oh i should add, the rear swaybar helps a lot in putting down power in corners as it keeps both front wheels evenly weighted and touching the ground. might be something that you could try :)

I usually have my fuse in too but if you ever want to put it on a dyno you'll need to take it out. I'm thinking about putting a button in but its a bit of stuffing around tbh.

Thinking about it, most of the time it does that I'm going around a bend or uphill as I live in a bit of a hilly area. So maybe thats it, but oh well. These things happen and I feel like a hoon!!

I'm planning on getting springs, shocks and a swaybar when I get my tax return. There's one particular bend near my house that I can go about 65-70 through (providing its not wet) but I can feel the wheels lifting LOL so I can only imagine how much that'd help. So exciiiiited to get my monies :D

[Neeko]

Team,
I'm looking at getting back into an Barina - XC SRi to be exact...can any of you give me an info that I need to be aware off when checking them out.

or should I go for the SXi instead - yes I know less power!!!

thanks

I'll sell you mine if you want :)
it'll be up for sale next week.

[Theo]

thanks for your feedback people...looking forward to getting back into a opel.
the sri should have more power than the old sb 1.2l that i had :ihih:

[Theo]

Ahh, you're not far from me either, I'm near Modbury.. if you get an SRi we'll have to have a mini-meet!!

done!!!

[Neeko]

my 2 cars

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq238/nicolaim88/059.jpg

[PrincessPeachey]

love how theres 3 corsas in that pic niko.

i'd take your rims off your hands :P

[Neeko]

love how theres 3 corsas in that pic niko.

i'd take your rims off your hands :P

The Sri ones?

[PrincessPeachey]

The Sri ones?

yep. mine came with the 7 spoke 15s.. now i have some csa dominators on there but would prefer the 16 sris.