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Metro1288
27th November 2008, 10:21 PM
I was talking to a mate tonight who dropped his car in for its 50,000klm service, he drives a subaru wrx evo8. During the day they gave him a call and told him that he has about 10% of his brake pads left and recommended that he replace the pads and the discs as well. Apparently on newer cars you need to change the brakes and discs together, something about not being able to machine them. Has anyone heard of this? is it correct?

It gets me worried to think that i will need to do the same with my AH Sri-T when i need to change the brakes.

RobCDX
28th November 2008, 07:36 AM
when i changed my pads for both front and rear i was told the same from my mechanic. the machining helps even out the surface so that the pad can grip, i think it depends on the thickness left on the rotor. i had about a 3mm lip on the edge of my front rotors, obviously if there's still "meat on the bone" then i can be carved. not 100% sure on the original thickness of the rotors as i forgot to measure them. but this was in my experience, could be different for the other guys n gals here.

nuggz
28th November 2008, 09:12 AM
yeah 3mm thinner than the original thickness is about the limit i think ( ive always thought 2mm)
or somewhere around there

but yeah, once it hits that point, it needs to be replaced.
if you run your finger on the edge of the disc you'll be able to feel it

xplosv57
28th November 2008, 09:22 AM
One thing you will find is that European cars will chew through discs quicker due to its softer compound, but in turn, the car stops a hell of alot better than a car with hard compound brakes (eg. Commodore or Falcon).

lithium
28th November 2008, 11:28 AM
yep it sounds about right...whether the rotors have to be replaced with your pads depends on how hard the pads are (i hear Opel OEM pads are extremely hard so Opels as least tend to chew right through the rotors, so pads and rotors are done at the same time), and also your braking habits

as said once the rotors are worn past minimum thickness (whatever the manufacturer says, but 3mm off sounds about right) they have to be replaced. rotors past minimum thickness don't dissipate heat effectively and they will overheat and eventually warp.

SKM_87
28th November 2008, 08:00 PM
mesure your disc's, i got 100thou outta my std disc and still had 1mm to go on them. most rotors have the min thickness printed on them on the outer edge or the hub. you shouldnt machine discs from newer cars, its a temp fix for them, they thend to warp very easy after that cause shudder. the proper way is a stone cut but nobody in aus can do that.

you can get away with new pads and not machining disc depending on your disc's condition. not very recommended.

Metro1288
1st December 2008, 10:53 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, will definitely take it on board for when i need to change my brakes :)

Noir
2nd December 2008, 11:37 AM
My old Astra was done at 45,000, compared to the Alfa at 125,000.

So yes, be prepared to pay.

gman
2nd December 2008, 04:30 PM
I'm on my 2nd set of aftermarket discs for my SRi-T in 120,000km's..A lot depends on how you drive it and the pads you use..Mine have seen some track work and I run hard pads..

Proper performance pads are usually much hard on the disc..

Either way, if you need to replace them, don't go OEM..Look for an aftermarket disc DBA, EBC or RDA which is usually cheaper or same price and same or better quality...

nuggz
2nd December 2008, 04:33 PM
Either way, if you need to replace them, don't go OEM..Look for an aftermarket disc DBA, EBC or RDA which is usually cheaper or same price and same or better quality...

+1
holden quoted me $600 just for front discs - i almost laughed in his face

one2have
3rd December 2008, 10:34 AM
30,000 k's - $1500 - Pads and rotors..

gslrallysport
3rd December 2008, 10:50 AM
^ That's a joke right?

one2have
3rd December 2008, 01:55 PM
^ That's a joke right?

THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT!

I kid you not..

The disks could not be machined. After a letter to Holden, the official reply was that brakes and pads are consumables and not covered by warranty.

Search for other threads here, this is quote common for the Veccy's and Astra's.

Its almost that time again for replacement. Considering aftermarket pads & rotors this time.

nuggz
3rd December 2008, 02:11 PM
Considering aftermarket pads & rotors this time.

You'd be silly not to
you could get slotted and crossdrilled rotors and v.good pads for that much

SSS_Hoon
3rd December 2008, 02:17 PM
all depends on the way u drive your car too.

Our GTI has just clicked over 90k and still has original pads and rotors, and they are similar to that of the astra's.

Some have had them replaced before 30k, guess we are just one of the lucky ones i guess.

I would recomend getting aftermarket ones put on instead of OEM, plus a decent set of pads and while your at it fluid flush with some decent fluid would be good too.


SSS_Hoon

one2have
3rd December 2008, 02:24 PM
Would they stop as good? Will they be Noisy?

Recommendations?

gman
3rd December 2008, 02:56 PM
Will be as good or better. DBA slotted are good, through you will feel a slight pulsing through the pedal on hard stops...

Pads are a personal thing..EBC are ok (I have the Red's), Hawk, Ferodo and some of the Bendix pads are good to...For touring around, just get a good quality pads that has a low operating temp range so they work as soon as you put your foot on the brakes...

gslrallysport mite be able to help you with these...

one2have
3rd December 2008, 03:26 PM
Awesome thanks Gman..

gslrallysport
3rd December 2008, 03:46 PM
Recommendations?
Pads, I'm finding it very hard to go past these:
http://www.qfmperformance.com
^ Read the customer feedback and also the links to where they said it, just in case you think I made them up! :p

We used to be very heavy into Lucas and EBC, but having now sold the QFM gear for a while, as well as used it personally, it sh!ts over both the Lucas and EBC in terms of performance, streetability (dust and rotor wear) AND PRICE! :clap:

So if it looks like we're flogging it hard (ie. registering a domain name just for one page in our site), it's because we are! ;)

- HPX, similar performance to a Bendix Ultimate (550 degrees), minus the dust and rotor wear, $79 per set front or rear.

- A1RM, better performance than either EBC Red or DS2500 Ferodo, but with much less dust and rotor wear, and what we personally run in our rally car. $119 per set front or rear.

That's the regular pricing for pads that QFM do, which includes XC Barina, and G/H Astra's, but I'd have to double check about Vectra. Either way, they're available, but as a custom pad is a few bucks more expensive.

Rotors, RDA or EBC's do the job. DBA drilled we stopped selling cause I was sick of having issues with them on cars that did track work, and DBA slotted aren't directional, unless you step up to 4000's, which some people don't like... Ask me for prices when you're ready to buy as RDA are going through a million price changes because of economy and aussie dollar excuses..

JohnBu
3rd December 2008, 03:55 PM
all depends on the way u drive your car too.

Our GTI has just clicked over 90k and still has original pads and rotors, and they are similar to that of the astra's.

Some have had them replaced before 30k, guess we are just one of the lucky ones i guess.

I would recomend getting aftermarket ones put on instead of OEM, plus a decent set of pads and while your at it fluid flush with some decent fluid would be good too.


SSS_Hoon

driving style is the largest factor on how long the pads last..

my OEM front pads lasted until 88,000km.

the rear lasted 80,000km.

changed the fronts to EBC Green stuff, its alot less dusty than OEM, but i'm not 100% happy with the low temp performance of them.

I will definately try QFM next time.

Had good experiences and lots of advice from gslrallysport.

Will continue to shop there for my braking requirements...

pity, they aren't in VIC so they can do the installation too.

gslrallysport
3rd December 2008, 04:00 PM
changed the fronts to EBC Green stuff, its alot less dusty than OEM, but i'm not 100% happy with the low temp performance of them.
oh, whilst I'm still in plug mode, that's another thing the QFM's have going for them, cold bite given the performance. Green's are about 0.36 cold, where as the HPX/A1RM are 0.41/0.40... If that' means anything to anyone! :p

But basically, even with the 780 degree A1RM, we can sit on the start line of a stage for half an hour, have dead cold brakes, and come barreling into the first tree lined 160km/hr hairpin with 100% brakes.. that's not something that alot of 800 degree race pads will do! :dance:

gman
3rd December 2008, 08:27 PM
- A1RM, better performance than either EBC Red or DS2500 Ferodo, but with much less dust and rotor wear, and what we personally run in our rally car. $119 per set front or rear.

Rotors, RDA or EBC's do the job. DBA drilled we stopped selling cause I was sick of having issues with them on cars that did track work, and DBA slotted aren't directional, unless you step up to 4000's, which some people don't like... Ask me for prices when you're ready to buy as RDA are going through a million price changes because of economy and aussie dollar excuses..

So the price on a set of A1RM pads for the SRi-T G is $119? (and 0.41/0.40 is good for a hi temp pad!!)

Also, can these be done in a pad shape equal to EBC Red DP3007C / Wilwood 7320 / Ferodo reference FRP501 (they should reference all the same pad shape)?

And do RDA do slotted rotors to fit the VXR Astra (322mm x 28mm)?? If so whats the cost on those too... ;)

Sorry for the hijack...

gslrallysport
3rd December 2008, 10:36 PM
So the price on a set of A1RM pads for the SRi-T G is $119?
Yep...

(and 0.41/0.40 is good for a hi temp pad!!)
Yep, A1RM is 0.40-0.48 cold-hot


Also, can these be done in a pad shape equal to EBC Red DP3007C / Wilwood 7320 / Ferodo reference FRP501 (they should reference all the same pad shape)?
Remind me tomorrow!


And do RDA do slotted rotors to fit the VXR Astra (322mm x 28mm)?? If so whats the cost on those too... ;)
As above... :p

SSS_Hoon
4th December 2008, 06:26 AM
When iw a slooking i found that the RDA slotted were better then the DBA slotted.

Wouldnt worry so much about the drilled though.

Can u get pads for other cars or only OPEL/Holden cars?



SSS_Hoon

gslrallysport
4th December 2008, 10:38 AM
Can u get pads for other cars or only OPEL/Holden cars?
Certainly can. 270ish odd pads here, you'd hope they're not all for Opel/Holden! :p

gslrallysport
4th December 2008, 10:48 AM
Also, can these be done in a pad shape equal to EBC Red DP3007C / Wilwood 7320 / Ferodo reference FRP501 (they should reference all the same pad shape)?
If you can get me a old set of pads to re-line, or just one pad that I can then get laser cut, definitely...


And do RDA do slotted rotors to fit the VXR Astra (322mm x 28mm)?? If so whats the cost on those too... ;)
t'wud appear not...

SSS_Hoon
4th December 2008, 10:50 AM
sweet after a price on diff pads to suit Nissan Skyline R32 GTR 4 piston calipers.

i guess mid of the range pads with low dust would be good.

Just after some prices on them if at all possible.

SSS_Hoon

gslrallysport
4th December 2008, 10:51 AM
Non Brembo?

[Edit] I'll assume so, just normal Sumitomo ones... Same prices, $79 for HPX, $119 for A1RM. Stacks of both on the shelf as it's the number one selling pad as it suits R32, R33, R34, 300ZX, S14, S15, WRX etc. etc.

SSS_Hoon
4th December 2008, 10:59 AM
yeah non-brembo

is that price including GST and post or plus plus?

SSS_Hoon

gslrallysport
4th December 2008, 11:02 AM
Inc GST, Shipping $10... Or else we do still have our half price rears deal at the moment, which if you buys rear as well HPX is $131 delivered, and A1RM $191 delivered.